convert 1949 ford Starter to 12 volt

Gene1949

Gene1949

Well-known member
While replacing the clutch and rebuilding the T-10 decided to "convert" the old starter to 12 volt. Been running the old 6 volt on 12 volt for 25 years and was concerned about the bendix and drive. Shouldn't have worried they were both in good shape.

Used NAPA part # RAY 2449609 ($49.95) and took about 20 minutes counting time to find my tools. Basically just remove the 49 armature with back plate and bendix as a unit and stab them into the new housing and brush support/end-plate..

Will let you know when I get everything back together.
 
My drive endplate was threaded so I used a 1" spacer and one of the bolts to secure the entire assembly while removing it. Makes the install a lot easier than having to manage 3 pieces [drive endplate, main body and brush endplate].
 
True, but the Bendix spring eventually breaks so, at that point a 12V conversion doesn't hurt.
 
>>>the Bendix spring eventually breaks so, at that point a 12V conversion doesn't hurt.>>>


And if it ever does break, a new $7 MVP spring doesn't hurt or cost as much either. 8^) Jack E/NJ
 
Automotive Stud said:
Sounds like a lot of work for nothing if the 6v starter was happy for 25 years.
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True but the car is eventually going to my daughter (after they take my driver's licence) and I want to "bulletproof" the car. Both her and her husband are mechanical zeros
 
Gene1949 said:
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Used NAPA part # RAY 2449609 ($49.95)
Click to expand...
Where were you when I bought an O'Reilly starter for a 1964 Ford Gallaxy costing $80 including a core charge.

Anyhoo, modification of my starter to 12v was worth the exercise if just in peace-of-mind. More power to everyone using their original 6v starter on 12v knows the extra stress on the Bendix and the "I've been doing it for many years and it hasn't broken" need to add a "yet and fingers-crossed". The new '12v' starter doesn't sound angry like the original 6v starter did on 12v.

For the record, while this mod changes the field coil to a 12v part, the original 6v armature is reused, so the new starter is technically not a 12v starter but a hybrid. It certainly does have less torque than a 6v starter on 12v yet more torque than a truly 12v starter.
 
I made the conversion using a 12V housing for my car. I looked at using the 12V armature also, but the shaft is a little longer. I measured, but have since forgotten the difference. I think maybe 1/2-3/4". I considered cutting the extra length off the 12V armature and drilling a new anchor hole for the bendix. Of course, the front plate of the 6V starter would be used, too. Has anyone considered this, or are there other problems to over come?
 
Why not just run the 6v started on 12v. I've been doing that for 60 years. but zi cary a spare. Haven't had to uz it yet!
 
>>>I want to "bulletproof" the car. Both her and her husband are mechanical zeros >>>




A better option would've been a AAA subscription. Seriously. Jack E/NJ
 
>>>A better option would've been a AAA subscription. Seriously. Jack E/NJ>>>

Upon inspecting the ring gear on the flywheel the damage was pretty severe from the forceful engagement. Something a AAA subscription won't fix.

Why would anyone call AAA anyway?? A ride home on a tow truck necessitating a fix when "preventative" maintenance in the form of a simple upgrade would handle the problem without the drama...
 
Gene1949 said:
>>>A better option would've been a AAA subscription. Seriously. Jack E/NJ>>>

Upon inspecting the ring gear on the flywheel the damage was pretty severe from the forceful engagement. Something a AAA subscription won't fix.

Why would anyone call AAA anyway?? A ride home on a tow truck necessitating a fix when "preventative" maintenance in the form of a simple upgrade would handle the problem without the drama...
Click to expand...
I have owned and worked on flathead Fords and Mercury's since the early '50's and have seen a number of flywheel starter ring gears, both mine and some belonging to others that had "severe damage".
Also have seen a number of broken starter springs.
The thing that these failures have in common is that they happened while all the vehicles were being operated on 6 VOLTS.
I guess that nobody could blame the failures on 12 VOLTS back then because it was not around to use as an excuse.
 
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