Control Rods

psimet

psimet

Senior Member
During my long process of removing my last engine and installing a new one I "may" have misplaced my original control rods (Spark, throttle and accelerator rods).

It seems the replacements have been out of stock forever or are Chinese ones that need to be drilled in order to fit the balls.

Outside of all of this I do have a fall '28 car so I am wondering if the lengths of the rods ever changed (meaning I am most likely out of luck buying a "new" set from a supplier)?
 
Four different lengths of rods.

Fall-28 could be either a two tooth (Gemmer) or 7 tooth. Each has their own length of rod IIRC.

The rods can be bought in carbon steel and finished as original (Nickel) or you can splurge and get the stainless rods which don't rust. The stainless rods of my purchase were drilled and I probably wouldn't buy a rod that wasn't drilled since there is a certain "orientation" the drilled hole has to have versus the bent top of the rod.

Snyders website will tell you which length of rod you need. They can be bought slightly cheaper elsewhere.

Joe K
 
psimet said:
During my long process of removing my last engine and installing a new one I "may" have misplaced my original control rods (Spark, throttle and accelerator rods).

It seems the replacements have been out of stock forever or are Chinese ones that need to be drilled in order to fit the balls.

Outside of all of this I do have a fall '28 car so I am wondering if the lengths of the rods ever changed (meaning I am most likely out of luck buying a "new" set from a supplier)?
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Snyder's has the control rods in stock, they only list one size for '28-31. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=979541&cat=0
 
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Bert's shows them in stock as well. As far as I know they're the same lengths for all four years - RHD excepted, of course.
 
Yes. One length. It is the control rod for the headlight switch that comes in four variants.


Joe K
 
I purchased a long set of rods that are only plated on the levers. I shortened them to convert a 30 type 2 tooth to a 29 2 tooth and used the old rusty rods to set up for drilling the holes for the little ball end levers. I drilled the holes small and then filed them to fit tight. I shortened the rods to match the amount that I shortened the column jacket. Everything fit to include the steering wheel and the new top bushing. If I can do it then anyone can.
 
I think we’re talking about two different things here. I believe OP is referring to the rods that go between the column and the distributor and throttle linkage, and between the throttle linkage and the carburetor. Not the lever rods that go down the steering tube.
 
Are we all talking about the same thing here? The OP asked about the "Spark, throttle and accelerator rods". Seems some are referring to the spark and gas rods??

If talking about "Spark, throttle and accelerator rods" (3 control rods under the hood) they are all the same length. If talking about "Spark and gas rods" (2 control rods in steering column), the 30-31 (2 tooth steering box) is ~ 1" longer than the 28-29 (7 tooth steering box).
 
JayJay said:
I think we’re talking about two different things here. I believe OP is referring to the rods that go between the column and the distributor and throttle linkage, and between the throttle linkage and the carburetor. Not the lever rods that go down the steering tube.
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John, you type faster than I do.
 
These posts can get off the rail easily when there is a misunderstanding. The little linkage rods have been unavailable for quite a while. I had to rework some originals recently and I used parts from several damaged rods to make up a set. I just paint them to control corrosion.

On the steering column rod, the long ones have been available but the short ones not to much so there in lies a carry over to confusion. There is a lot of stuff that has been on hold the last few years.
 
Yes it is confusing. I would have called them “linkage rods” but looking up at the online shops there is a mix of terms but almost all have some form of “control rod” in their description.

As for the “actual” control rods being the 2 on the steering column for spark and throttle - I refinished mine and nickel plated them again. I believe I posted a thread here when I did it.

I’ve been hanging back and letting it play out because everyone here always has such great stuff I figured there’s no need to go in a put a stop to it.

I ended up tearing apart the only place I’m trying to keep parts now and I eventually found all 3 original ones. Not in the same place for some reason.

They were super rusted so I just wanted to see if I could lightly clean the so they’d look a little more fitting. I hit them with a scotchbrite pad and WD40. The original cadmium came through in places. In other places I’m sure I’m down to base steel. Oh well.

Coated them in WD40 and we will see how it goes. When they rust up fully again it’s no loss. Also straightened them out a bit too.

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If you aren’t already aware - I’m the third owner and it’s a single family survivor car. I am not going to do a frame off restoration. I had to swap the engine because my block had a crack we couldn’t get fixed.

As I am not doing a full restoration I am trying to get it mechanically sound. Whenever I have to “touch” a system or a part I essentially “restore” it but I don’t get hung up on the looks.

I lucked into a freshly rebuilt engine that has Antique Engine Rebuilding’s touring package on it. I’ve been slowly getting it put in. I am in the cycling industry so winters seem to be my only real time to work on it steadily.

Other pics

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Etc.
 
I use a silver paint to simulate silver cadmium. The cadmium lasts well if the car is in a controlled environment but not so much in a highly humid area. The paint lasts well and it easy to replace when it deteriorates.
 
They were super rusted so I just wanted to see if I could lightly clean them so they’d look a little more fitting.
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Being that rusty, check the internal springs, may need replacing.
 
katy said:
Being that rusty, check the internal springs, may need replacing.
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Good point! A member of your club's control rod to the carburetor fell off her '29 Pick up. You can imagine the excitement when the engine would not return to idle while she was driving. A new set of control rods from Snyder's fit perfect.
 
Snyder's shows the complete set in stock but they also show the individual short 6-inch one out of stock, There always seems to be a fly in the ointment on this stuff.
 
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