Control arm

Dick M

Dick M

Well-known member
I have the 30-31 steering box. I need to replace the ball control arm for the advance and throttle. I tried to use a socket and hammer to break the pin that holds the arm in place. No luck. I have also tried to compress the spring to relieve the tension and try to remove the pin with a punch. No luck. I have tried both methods with the steering column out of the car and in the car. Again, no luck.
Any suggestions to remedy my issue would be appreciated.
Thank you..
 
Dick M said:
I have the 30-31 steering box. I need to replace the ball control arm for the advance and throttle. I tried to use a socket and hammer to break the pin that holds the arm in place. No luck. I have also tried to compress the spring to relieve the tension and try to remove the pin with a punch. No luck. I have tried both methods with the steering column out of the car and in the car. Again, no luck.
Any suggestions to remedy my issue would be appreciated.
Thank you..
Click to expand...
Try some Heat and then spray with Windex while very hot Let cool squelch with water then drive out with punch!!
 
My experience is that the pin is "tapered." It is put in place and then the ends "peined" over rivet style.

Some have recommended to simply "hold" the handle in place and then use the mondo adjustable wrench to turn the ball lever to shear off the pin. I have done this and it works, but you run the risk to "twist" the control rod. New rods are available although supply is spotty these days.

A possibly better way is to grind off the peining and then examine to determine the "small end." And use a "pin punch" to drive it out. I have done this too. But you said you tried this?

It is always possible to simply replace everything with new. Use a thin wheel and cut inside the spring. The crank end runs about $8 and you may want to examine if you want to replace the rods with stainless rods - and get past that business about the handle ends eventually "tarnishing" or rusting with the moisture from your fingers.

If you go this way, see Snyder's instructions pertaining to the ID of the ball end lever. There are mis-match problems between new rods (plated the entire length not just the handle part) and the ball lever ID (purportedly made to Ford standards.)

Joe K
 
Thank you to all responders. I ordered new parts for the job and now have the confidence to complete the job...
 
Having restored several steering tubes I find a block of wood to support the top of the tube and rods lets a 7!16 nut driver shear the pins in the knobs.
 
You can also use a carpenter's clamp, the one with the rubber tips, to hold the arms in place at the top while you shear the pins.
 
quickchange said:
Tap the rod from the bottom with a drift it will sheer the pin , done dozens that way ,
Click to expand...

this is the best way. if you have a small 1/4 drive socket that is the same or smaller diameter as the rod use that as a drift. that way you will damage the pointed end of the control rod. hit it hard.
 
I’ve done it a couple of different ways. Grind off the peen and drive out with a small punch, or use the socket trick as described above. I use a 1/4” drive deep socket of the proper size. If you do it this way you should confine the rods at the top so they don’t move. I stand the housing upright with the tops of the rods resting on a piece of wood. A second set of hands is helpful. If you use a hardened roll pin to reattach the arms this method likely won’t work the next time. Only do this if you’re sure you have the soft steel original type pins.
 
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