condenser
- Thread starter JOHN-WA.
- Start date
1931 flamingo
Well-known member
Interesting, I can't help you with a part #, but would ask them to ck another box or two. If the application hasn't changed how would it be installed in it's original application if an inch SHORT??
Paul in CT
Paul in CT
Jim Parker Toronto
Well-known member
You should not be running 12 volts at the points. There should either be an internal or external resistor in the circuit. Some use resistive wires. NO points are made for the full 12v hit. I just learned this so........
Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
Some electronics.
The capacitor used in the car is rated for something like 200volts. They need to be fairly highly rated because they absorb the energy from the back EMF created after the coil fires. The break down of the magnetic field creates a current pulse that can create a high voltage at the capacitor. The capacitors job is to prevent the arc the high voltage pulse creates as the points open.
The capacitor sees the full 12 volts when the point are open. The resistor only limits voltage when there is current flowing though the coil. When the points are open you will measure 12 volts across the point gap.
I ask why are you changing the condenser?
Points and condensers can last tens of years. My brother has 40 years on the used points that came with his car in 1970. The condenser is the original style burnout proof. He put on a burnout proof condenser in 1986. It had the soldered ground strap come off and he bent it to contact the body. A few years ago he mentioned this to A&L and they gave him a new spot welded condenser. He replaced the working condenser with the spotwelded one just to be on the safe side.
One of the mistakes guys make is thinking their points need to be changed regularly. It is a waste of money and resources. If you have a good quality set of points and a buffed smooth cam then it should last many thousands of miles. You should expect the wear block to wear fast at first until it wears to match the cam. Once wore into the cam it should go for very long periods before needed to adjust the points.
I should add you need to be sure the points are parallel and the cam is good and the gap is the same for each lobe. There are several things that can trip you up with bad parts that are available today. Your most reliable system is the original with a modern condenser and a quality set of old points.
Points were changed every year on cars driven everyday because the shops made money selling you stuff and they were driven a lot.
The capacitor used in the car is rated for something like 200volts. They need to be fairly highly rated because they absorb the energy from the back EMF created after the coil fires. The break down of the magnetic field creates a current pulse that can create a high voltage at the capacitor. The capacitors job is to prevent the arc the high voltage pulse creates as the points open.
The capacitor sees the full 12 volts when the point are open. The resistor only limits voltage when there is current flowing though the coil. When the points are open you will measure 12 volts across the point gap.
I ask why are you changing the condenser?
Points and condensers can last tens of years. My brother has 40 years on the used points that came with his car in 1970. The condenser is the original style burnout proof. He put on a burnout proof condenser in 1986. It had the soldered ground strap come off and he bent it to contact the body. A few years ago he mentioned this to A&L and they gave him a new spot welded condenser. He replaced the working condenser with the spotwelded one just to be on the safe side.
One of the mistakes guys make is thinking their points need to be changed regularly. It is a waste of money and resources. If you have a good quality set of points and a buffed smooth cam then it should last many thousands of miles. You should expect the wear block to wear fast at first until it wears to match the cam. Once wore into the cam it should go for very long periods before needed to adjust the points.
I should add you need to be sure the points are parallel and the cam is good and the gap is the same for each lobe. There are several things that can trip you up with bad parts that are available today. Your most reliable system is the original with a modern condenser and a quality set of old points.
Points were changed every year on cars driven everyday because the shops made money selling you stuff and they were driven a lot.
