Condenser Restoration

30ccpickup

30ccpickup

Well-known member
Here is a rough cut video of my first attempt to restore a condenser. Has anyone ever used an electrically conductive epoxy? I would like to come up with a method to ground the original cylinder to the new condenser internally. A second idea would be a spring, like used with the battery in a flashlight. Any thoughts or suggestions on other methods to connect the ground would be appreciated. Once everything is figured out, I will add text and sound to the video.

https://youtu.be/rWUbOc6cch8?feature=shared

Thanks
Paul
 
Bob C said:
Maybe something conductive like Kopr-Shield but not so expensive. https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-CK-CP8TB-COMPOUND/dp/B002KKW27M/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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5405841-23.jpg
 
Thanks for Kopr-Sheild lead. I never thought of a paste type material. I can always seal it in with an epoxy.

Further note: During assembly, it is possible to adjust the screw to place pressure between the back of the capacitor and the inside bottom of the original housing. Along with a coat of Dielectric grease, will it be sufficient enough to maintain a ground?

530839
 

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One would think heat would be detrimental to the condenser. But yet, it appears during the original assembly a copper strap was soldered from the top of the innards to the output screw terminal (can be seen in the video)

Thoughts: What do you think, if I pre-tinned the outside bottom of the condenser and inside the bottom of the original housing, assembled it and once again applied heat to the bottom to join them? Am I pushing my luck or is it worth a try?

Note: If there was an unlimited budget and parts were plentiful, I would make several and report back the findings. At this point, I can make two. It would be nice if they both worked. Any other comments for improvement on the entire process would be appreciated.
 
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From my experience, I think you are on the right track being concerned with maintaining a good contact between the new condenser and the shell. Any deficiencies here will lead to intermittent problems and flakey performance. Since mine are brass, I can solder all of the connections, which is 100% foolproof if done properly.

As to the "heat problem", a lot would depend on the type and quality of the donor you are using. Mine are rated at 550 degrees Fahrenheit so they can take a little momentary heat. I think all you can do is try it and see if there are any ill effects.

My main concern would be the quality of the donor condenser you are using. They may be fine, or possibly prone to the problems plaguing most new condensers these days; I can't tell from here. In any event, kudos to you for taking this on. I had considered doing something like this, but the amount of labor involved made it impractical. If you can solve the contact problem, this looks like something most hobbyists could reasonably take on and would yield a good looking and reliable unit.
 
marko39 said:
i dont think you want to use dielectric grease to improve a connection.
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This is correct. Dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor. It helps resist corrosion and repels moisture but that's all. Conductive past is what's needed to improve a connection.
 
drill a hole in the unseen bottom to solder through pre tinned area
take some stranded wire and use it to take up space between the shells to give some mechanical electrical connection
 
tubman said:
From my experience, I think you are on the right track being concerned with maintaining a good contact between the new condenser and the shell. Any deficiencies here will lead to intermittent problems and flakey performance. Since mine are brass, I can solder all of the connections, which is 100% foolproof if done properly.

As to the "heat problem", a lot would depend on the type and quality of the donor you are using. Mine are rated at 550 degrees Fahrenheit so they can take a little momentary heat. I think all you can do is try it and see if there are any ill effects.

My main concern would be the quality of the donor condenser you are using. They may be fine, or possibly prone to the problems plaguing most new condensers these days; I can't tell from here. In any event, kudos to you for taking this on. I had considered doing something like this, but the amount of labor involved made it impractical. If you can solve the contact problem, this looks like something most hobbyists could reasonably take on and would yield a good looking and reliable unit.
Click to expand...


Although the condenser shown is for a 1935-1936, I plan to use it in my ‘38. The modern condenser I purchased is NAPA FA49. Hopefully it is not on the list of being ify.
 
Kurt in NJ said:
drill a hole in the unseen bottom to solder through pre tinned area
take some stranded wire and use it to take up space between the shells to give some mechanical electrical connection
Click to expand...

Good, thanks! Upon further examination, that is the way they originally did it. If I am risking heat, I might as well copy Henry's method.

1. De-solder bottom of the original to uncover existing hole.
2. Tin the bottom of the new condenser and the wire. Solder the two together.
3. Run wire through the existing hole of the original casing.
4. Re-solder wire to casing.
 
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The original A&L condenser in my model A was early production with a soldered tab, I melted the solder driving,just bent the tab to touch, have had the manifold red before, condenser still good
 
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