Condenser Readings

Guys we are getting waaaay too technical with this. The best test for a condensor the Lord gave ya.

Attach positive bat post to condensor case via period correct baling wire. Touch condensor post to negative battery post. Remove condenser post from bat, and baling wire from condensor and bat. Now, lick thumb and index finger, place thumb on side of condensor and touch index finger to post. If you are still holding condensor, it is no good. That easy. :)

In reality, you will not be able to test a condensor for its long term viability in my opinion. The factors at play are leakage of the case components allowing the insulating fluid out and or air in. I don't see that any meter will give you a long term viability reading.

Adam
 
Guys we are getting waaaay too technical with this. The best test for a condensor the Lord gave ya.

Attach positive bat post to condensor case via period correct baling wire. Touch condensor post to negative battery post. Remove condenser post from bat, and baling wire from condensor and bat. Now, lick thumb and index finger, place thumb on side of condensor and touch index finger to post. If you are still holding condensor, it is no good. That easy. :)

In reality, you will not be able to test a condensor for its long term viability in my opinion. The factors at play are leakage of the case components allowing the insulating fluid out and or air in. I don't see that any meter will give you a long term viability reading.

Adam

Now this is a operational component test that I can understand
 
The Service Bulletins are specific about the capacitance values.

A-12300 is 0.20 to 0.25 microfarads

The 1928 letter calls for 0.30 mfd

Vince, I'm glad you posted that because that falls in the value for every car condenser I've ever worked with. I thought the .3 shown in the paper above seemed a little high. Most of the ones I've been checking fall between .22 and .27 and work fine.:)
 
I bought the meter, and checked 3) A&L condensers. All within 0.01 from each other.
 

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