Condenser Length

B

Bergy

Member
Currently rebuilding/reconverting my distributor from "modern" set up to original, due to poor quality upper plate that does not ride snuggly in the groove, causing difficulty in setting point and timing, etc. Thanks for prior guidance from this forum to covert back to original.

I bought a new set of points and condenser for the rebuild. The new burnout proof condenser I received with my new points is about 1/4" shorter than the original condenser that was removed in earlier conversion (the original removed was about 3-3/16", while the new replacement is about 2-15/16" long). Is this ok, or did I possibly get the wrong condenser. I'd call the vendor, but they're closed until Tuesday, so would like to get it finished before then. I could experiment, but don't want to inadvertently create another problem.

I don't know if the original condenser is any good, since this whole process started when the car would just die after several miles. I observed a bare strand on the pig tail so that started my rebuild to the modern type. Now after further reading about condensers on this sight, it may have been that my original condenser was failing after it warmed up. Bottom line I'm going to start over with all new parts in original distributor set up.

Thanks again in advance for your guidance or confirmation on condenser length.
 
The condensers I get from Bratton's are also the good quality type that have the ground tab stake welded on. Three dots on the tab. They measure 2 and 1\8" from the tab to the end of the brass boss that attaches to the lower plate.

It is best not to use those that have the tab soldered on, a hot engine will melt the solder and you will lose the ground.

If it appears to be too long it is more than likely because the arm on the lower plate is bent out of position. bend it back so that the screw hole lines up in the window.

When you install, make sure and use the thick fiber washer with the screw that connects the lower plate arm. This will help keep the arm from shorting to the casting. Best to glue it to the arm before you install the lower plate.

Tom Endy
 
Sorry for the typo, I was off by 1".

The original was 2-1/8". The replacement I got from Berts was 1-7/8", Motorcraft DC-1 (A-12300), which was listed as short proof. I noticed same number is used by Mike's. Advertised as US made. The tab is soldered on.

Junk or OK?

Is it possible that it meets the "short proof" designations since it's shorter, thus the internals can't contact the distributor casing with or without the fiber washer on the internal screw?
 
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I agree, The older repro condensers that I have sometimes used in the past were longer. If the longer condenser is used, it will slightly protrude on the manifold side of the distributor housing. If the longer condenser is pushed farther in untill the manifold side is flush with the distributor housing and the fiber washer isn't used, the lower plate will more than likely short out on the drivers side of the distributor. The only way that I have found to hold the fiber washer in place while installing the condenser is to first super glue the fiber washer to the lower plate before installation. When the condenser with the soldered tab is used, if the solder melts, the condenser loses ground and ceases to function. this doesn't necessarily mean that the condenser has burned out but has just lost ground. In some cases rosin core solder and a electric soldering gun can return them to operating condition. If the timing is retarded or the points gap is closing as in needing adjustment , the manifold gets hotter and melts the solder on the soldered tab condensers very quickly.
 
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