J Franklin
Well-known member
The mounting bracket is an electrical conductor Suggest soldering it on to another condenser, if need be.
I'm not sure, I have used VW condensers without any attachment to the car other than the lead to the distributor.
The mounting bracket is an electrical conductor Suggest soldering it on to another condenser, if need be.
Is this end of the condenser merely held in by the tension of the pull knob or should it be screwed into something? Show that pull knob actually screw into something. It turns but does not tighten.
Some of your postings make me wonder if you read the responses and view the photographs that are posted to help you. If you look at photos posted in #6 above you can see the proper mounting location and the screw holding the condenser in place. A lock washer on the screw is also good, don't use old rusty hardware on any electrical connection.
Looks like the screw is 8-32x1/4"
Thanks..
it has been 7 years since I messed around with my car and have forgotten a lot in that time. My car just began experiencing several problems and I have a hard time remembering. Unfortunately, there are several know it all gurus on this forum that are as nasty as they are knowledgeable. They make coming on here a painful experience. for a 75 year old man.
In my experience there are very few working Model B condensers still out there.
A previous comment said that "NOS B condensers aren't very scarce." We should distinguish between NOS and NORS, i.e., B condensers made by Ford vs those made by third parties. NORS B condensers do show up at swaps and on eBay from time to time. I've never seen a true NOS B condenser for sale. If someone is saying "there's lots of NOS B condensers," it's probably because they're looking at their personal hoard.
To be functional, a condenser needs to have the correct capacitance for its application and it needs to not leak (current, not innards) when heated to engine bay temperatures. In my experience testing several dozen NORS B condensers, maybe 10% of them were still functional. The rest had decayed, most likely from improper storage. Of condensers I've tested that were pulled from B distributor cores, none have worked. I've also had the chance to test two true NOS B condensers, both of which worked.
My advice to anyone trying to stick with the B condenser design is to get a good multimeter and learn how to check them, and be prepared to buy a lot of cores before you find a good one. Alternately you can adapt a modern reproduction A condenser, which are quite reliable and should serve without issue.