Concrete Floor protector

D

Danny/Texas

Junior Member
Does anyone have a recommendation to put on my new concrete floor to protect from oil and grease. And do I have to have a sealer too? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks much
Danny
 
Danny,
I built a new shop 4 years ago and researched all the methods for flooring. Sealers, Paint, epoxy coatings, tiles, etc., etc. Some you have to let the floor "cure" for a year. Anyway, I decided to do nothing. Good decision.
Fords leak so let them leak. Speedy dry under the leak spots and will clean the concrete white. Other spills, paint, polish, compound, dirt, engine building, just add character to the shop. My 2 cents worth. Just enjoy your new shop.
John
 
Don't try to get fancy. Just treat the new concrete with a densifier. That will harden the surface and prevent absorption of liquids by capillary action. Just Google "concrete densifier" and you'll find it.

Bob
 
Danny... I have painted my shop floor, after cleaning and doing whatever they recommended but now you would never know as most of the paint has come off in the well used areas , so I have 2 , 3 x3 ft galvanized metal trays I slide under the cars, you would be suprised how much the old Ford leaks, and it has been cleaned a couple of times and the car hasn't run for a year , JMO:)
 
Best thing you can do is to let the floor cure, then seal it. If you "use" your garage, paint won't last long...even epoxy. The best thing to do is to seal it, epoxy paint it, then lay down an oil proof mat of some kind down under the car, and keep a bag of kitty litter handy. I've used a Construction grade plastic with great results...
 
One of the things about the internet is it's a huge collection of info..........that's both good and bad, just like the info itself. If you get 100 responses to this, odds are they'll each be different, and assuredly contradictory. Somewhere along the way you're just going to have to bite the bullet, take a flier, and make a choice. That being said, here's my story.

About 8 years ago I doubled the size of my garage. I wanted to coat the floor, did some reasearch, and made a decision to epoxy paint it myself. Like now, only less so as the internet was smaller, there was no definitive theme to the research. So I had to overlay life experience. Long ago learned that with any coating, preparation means more than anything. I don't doubt all the people who say painting a floor is bad because it peels up. I'm sure that's their experience (or the story they choose to repeat dispite lack of personal experience). Unfortunately, virtually none of them really knows why. Those few that answer may say they followed the prep instructions to the letter and still had failure. Maybe they did, or maybe they only think (believe) they did. When we poured the floor we made sure we had an effective vapor barrier underneath. You'll get all manner of argument over what "cured" means, in my case we were at 3 months when I painted it. I used the Rustoleum kit available at most hardware stores, big or small. Used their supplied cleaning material, didn't pre-etch it in any other way (in fact called the 800 tech line and they warned to NOT do anything other than their supplied material). It went on relatively easily and has stayed put. I haven't done any burn outs on it, so to some maybe I haven't "used" it enough. But it has endured spilled automotive fluids of all types, paint overspray and subsequent solvent clean up, welding slag, plasma cutter blasts, dropped iron and steel items, dragged engines and transmissions, yada yada. No resultant lifting. It's not as pretty in some spots as when new, but no film/coating failure. Am I "lucky"? Perhaps, just like the guy who's had failure and doesn't know why, I've had success and (based on all the horror stories you hear/see) don't know why. Except that what I did performs as promised after following the directions. Clean up is a breeze (whether broom, mop or rag), it reflects light better than raw concrete, and looks nice. I'm sure the devotees of high dollar, professionally applied products sniff in disbelief at my 700 sq. ft. costing less than $100 to do, but it's worked for me.

This is what it looked like shortly after move in. As with all space, it's more crowded now......:)
 

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I have galvanized pans (3 x6?????) under my cars. Easy to clean and to get out of the way when you go under. Try Wal-mart, parts store, etc.
 
UNCLEBOB - I believe the key to your success was new concrete and a vapor barier...not to mention following the paint application instructions to the letter...
 
I went the high dollar route with u-coat-it, followed the directions to the letter, on a 10 year old floor. It is now 3 years later and it has held up well, except for the stains and yellowing where oil and gas were spilled. If I were to do it all over again, I'd go to Lowes or Home Depot and use their product and pocket the money saved. My 2 cents...
 
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Something has to be said about the extreme conditions which the coating must endure. Up here in Northern Minnesota, the temperature extremes, road salt, sand, slush and rain will IMO eventually wear off the coating. I have tried to meticulously follow the manufacturers prep instructions/ even to the point of scraping, palm/hand sanding old coatings and still moisture (from under concrete or pin holes in painted surface?) seems to create bubbling in the paint (Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield) and eventual flaking off. Still I think it is important, at least up here to put some kind of protection on the concrete or risk the surface deterioration that I see on driveways after time. I'm just resgined to redoing the floor every other year and at least it will look nice for awhile!
 
My friends tell me that I have the only floor(slab) that will burn,so much paint,oil and lacquer thinner has been spilled on it over the years. James
 
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