complete 36 rear

S

sourmash

Junior Member
I tried searching the older posts but can not find the answer I am looking for. I am building a 36 Tudor and would like to put a "late model" rear in it, preferably with discs. I am runing the original 21 stud flatty so an 8" would probably sufice. Is there a list out there that gives the widths of some of the newer fords ? I know it should be 58 1/2 to match the original ?? Tks, Brett
 
WHY? The car will not be worth as much and you will you will not gain a thing. Richard from v8 garage can tell you how to stop a 36 ford that is original. There is nothing wrong with the original brakes. I use original brakes on my old fords and they work fine. If you want to drive a Mustang two, buy a Mustang two. Do not cut up an old ford. They are getting hard to find and they are cool the way they are.

Quit reading those trashy magazines like Street Rodder.
 
If the the only method to madness is for disk brakes, I have to agree with the traditionalists. Now if your talking a small block Ford with a T-5, I can see the method. Way to much work to convert a closed drive car to an open drive car just for stopping power. The Lincoln/Bendix hydraulic drum brake conversion would be a way lot easier if you just want stopping power.

Kerby
 
Ok...Sturgis...I believe the original has 4.11's in it and that will not be adequate for the type of driving it will be used for. IF I keep the original rear...can I change the ratio ?? Going to the hydraulic conversion would be ok. As you can tell...I am new to all of this ?? Tks, Brett
 
I failed to mention in my original post. Although I am running the original 21 stud, there is a ford c4 ****** in it. The car is for my daughter and the automatic is a better choice althoug I realize there is nothing wrong with the original, (other than driving the highway).
 
sourmash said:
Ok...Sturgis...I believe the original has 4.11's in it and that will not be adequate for the type of driving it will be used for. IF I keep the original rear...can I change the ratio ?? Going to the hydraulic conversion would be ok. As you can tell...I am new to all of this ?? Tks, Brett
Click to expand...

I am sure there are experts on the Barn about changing gear ratio's. I am not much of an expert on anything. I am also in the learning stage. I like the looks of the banjo rear ends.
 
look on the spine at the bottom of center section of your rear end....should be numbers stamped on that spine which will tell you which ratio you have, unless the gears have been changed...you might not have 4:11.....and yes, you can put different gears in there....and Hot Rod Works(see link) sell an open drive conversion for your rear end, also....good luck....Mike

http://www.hotrodworks.com/
 
Wow, This is confusing! Do you have the C4 in it already? It takes a lot of chopping to get one in. The best replacement rear is a Maverick at 56" wide and wheel adapters so you can run the wire wheels. Nothing else works! If the original trans is still in the car, I would just put later high speed gears in it and Richard can make the change to hydraulics painless.
The change to a different rear suspension and diferent trans is a big deal and often done so the car becomes prone to breakage. The factory had all the engineering right. Bubba's street rod shop is less competent.
Women drove stick shifts fine in the past. My wife had never driven an automatic when we were married.
 
Andy said:
Wow, This is confusing! Do you have the C4 in it already? It takes a lot of chopping to get one in. The best replacement rear is a Maverick at 56" wide and wheel adapters so you can run the wire wheels. Nothing else works! If the original trans is still in the car, I would just put later high speed gears in it and Richard can make the change to hydraulics painless.
The change to a different rear suspension and diferent trans is a big deal and often done so the car becomes prone to breakage. The factory had all the engineering right. Bubba's street rod shop is less competent.
Women drove stick shifts fine in the past. My wife had never driven an automatic when we were married.
Click to expand...


Joyce will drive the old Fords but her statement is " I do not like cars the have more pedals than I have feet". Here other statement is "I know how the dog fells when he is scratching his ears. The pedals are so high". Here other statement is" Didn't Ford make hoods for these".
 
Sourmash to prevent you from getting pounced upon any more, it might be better to address this issue on the sister to this forum "Jalopy Journal/ H.A.M.B. forum". To give you an answer since you are already here and you are using a C-4 conversion, use the axle chart in the link provided by Grandadeo in post #2 and combine a rear axle with a parallel leaf spring kit Mfg by Chassis Engineering or Posies and everything will bolt right back together. You can up grade to hydraulic brakes and have a vehicle that will run with todays traffic, stop quicker at higher speeds and will be easy and enjoyable for your daughter to drive.
 
If it already has a later model automatic transmission going in then you will have to have an open drive rear axle. Maverick and old style Broncos had the best width for the early Fords but you will have a lot more questions about the rear suspension when you get that far. The HAMB on the Jalopy Journal web-site will have a lot more info about open drive suspension set ups for the rear axle.

Kerby
 
The reason I sugested th Maverick over the Granada or Bronco is the hope he would want to use the wire wheels. Kelsey's? The Maverick with 1" adapters accepts the wires and is the right width. The Granada with adapters is too wide. The Bronco has to have very thick adapters and also becomes too wide. If a set of new steelies/mags are planed, then the Granada or the Bronco are probably better. If old style steelies are used, then stay with the Maverick.
The HAMB will help you.
 
Personally, I would leave the '36 rearend in the car, they are good rearends. I'm not a diehard restorer but I was raised by one. I think a flathead powered car should have early running gear. Install some Lincoln brakes if you want it to stop better.

If you still want to change the rearend Frank Oddo wrote an article on rearends for street rods in the May 1991 issue of Street Rodder. Here is the width chart from the article.

They make brackets that weld to the housing so you can use '36 Ford rear radius rods to install the rearend and still keep your buggy spring. American Rodder did an article on installing '36 radius rods on a Ford 8" rearend in the February, 1998 issue. If you want a modern rearend this is the best compromise, much better looking than coil springs or parallel leaf springs. You definitely do not need a Ford 9-inch rearend you don’t want the extra weight. When I was kid I did horrible terrible things to Ford 8-inch rearends and never broke one. In the article they cut there own mounting plates and welded them to the housing. I believe Specialty Ford Parts in Rosemead, CA has these brackets for sale (626-288-3311) You will need straighten the housing if you weld these brackets on it.
Most of the Ford 8-inch rearends came high gear ratios 2.80:1, 3.00:1, 3.25:1, these are two high for your little 21 stud flathead. Your car will not have the get up and go that it did with the stock gears. Something to think about if you have to buy lower gears.

I would save the old rearend so you can always put it back if you change your mind or decide to sell the car. Don't do anything that cannot be undone.

Jerry
 

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Wow...Lot's to digest. The rear ratio and "hydraulic" brakes are my goal. Rotorwrench, where can I get some info on the conversion set / The C4 is already set up to go in. The previous "owner/builder" had already changed the support with a kit from Flat-O. I have the dropped front end with a disc set up on it ready to go also. I think that came out of a 39 and the wishbone was changed to one from a 36. Like I said...I am new to all of this so all of your advice and assistance is greatly appreciated !!! Tks..( off to the HAMB posts)
 
A lot depends on what style rear suspension you want to use. If it's the the parallel rear leaf spring as Dick mentioned earlier, it will save having to locate the rear axle for a single transverse spring set up and will handle torque forces on the rear axle plus give you good roll characteristics. If you want an original style transverse spring set up you will have to do a lot of work installing spring hangers on the rear axle and installing either a 4-bar set up or fabricating a 2-bar set up with a single torque link to replace the missing torque tube. In my opinion the 4-bar has a tendency to bind somewhat under roll forces and is better suited for coil springs. A torque arm set up can be just as bad on a transverse spring if not well designed. Its really difficult to replace that torque tube on a transverse spring set up.

Either set up could be used but the parallel leaf set up would likely be the most simple since you can purchase that in a kit form and it solves a lot of other problems you can run into. Nearly any rear axle you choose could be set up to work how ever you want to go. Modern axles definitely have a lot more gear ratio choices than the old banjo. Banjos can have 3.55:1, 3.78:1, 4.11:1, and higher but most folks don't go that high unless it's for a truck.

Kerby
 
This car may be fubar already. I would go ahead and continue with your 9" rear end. Have you thought about an Allison transmission and a Dura Max diesel. A Corvair front end would be good. They were trendy for awhile.

Advertising sells and trends fade away. I always want to be trendy myself and buy everything that is new and exciting so I can be admired by all of my friends. I have never heard them say what an idiot out loud.

You should appreciate what you have.
 
Sturgis, I didn't come here to get "bashed" ! I know and appreciate the value of keeping somethings original. I have a 38 Chevy 3/4 ton rack body and a 48 chevy PU both of which are completely stock and driven regularly. THIS particular one though, as stated earlier, is my daughters. I'm trying to build a dependable and convenient vehicle with the "options" she would like while trying not to change too much.

To the others...thank you for your insight and replies.
 
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