Combustion chamber sparkplug length question?

AzBob

Senior Member
I received the NOS aftermarket cast iron heads to replace the corroded aluminum heads on my '34. The 18MM Autolite 386 sparkplugs come up approx. 3 threads short compared to the aluminum heads. Is this something to be concerned about and should I run a longer reach sparkplug?

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19Fordy thanks for the valuable info. Most of those recommendations point to a 14mm 3/4" spark plug thread as being ideal. Not as many choices for 18MM plugs.

My existing 18mm Autolite 386's thread length are 1/2" long. Certainly don't want one long enough to interfere with pistons, valves or threads sticking out to collect carbon or create hot spots.
 
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i ran short plugs in an engine designed for longer ones for six months once. and found no discernable difference, not that i recommend it. the only downside was becoming a pariah on a forum focusing on those cars. :).
 
While both "Ronnie Roadster" and "Bored and Stroked" possess stellar reputations and impeccable track records when it come to flathead engines, I'm going to play "Devil's Advocate" here. I have always been a stickler for proper spark plug fitment. I firmly believe that there should be full thread engagement between the plug and the head, for both plug retention and performance reasons.

Cast iron is stronger than aluminum, and aluminum heads almost always have deeper threads for better plug retention. I deal in a lot of used 8BA aluminum heads, and just about every pair I come across has at least one (and usually more) spark plug threads that have been repaired. I rarely see this with cast iron heads. In most of these cases, I'm sure that is was the result of some overzealous "rookie" applying too much torque on installation. Nevertheless, there is a reason just about ALL aftermarket aluminum heads have plug holes with more "reach" than the stock iron heads.

When it comes to performance, I just cannot believe that a badly shrouded plug will be able to ignite the mixture as efficiently as one that presents it's energy directly into the incoming mixture. Below is a photo of one of a set of Edmunds heads I recently purchased. Notice that almost half of the plug threads are full of carbon, the result of running 3/16" reach plugs in these heads. All eight plug holes looked like this. The next picture shows an Edmunds head with the proper spark plug installed. Edmunds heads are different from all other manufactures in that the spark plug has been relocated enough so that it does not sit directly above the exhaust valve, allowing the use of extended tip plugs.
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It is inconceivable to me that the engine with the shrouded plugs could run anywhere as well as an engine with the proper plugs. I do not have the resources or the inclination to make comparison dynamometer runs, but I would bet a significant amount that an engine with the proper fitted plugs would return better numbers than one with shrouded plugs. I have taken to running Edmunds heads exclusively because of this feature and believe they are a definite improvement over the Offenhauser's that I ran previously.

One last thing that comes into play is that running a short plug that does not have full contact with the entire thickness of the head will interfere with transfer of heat from the plug to the head (and thence to the cooling system).

As an aside, I have found that there are no stock plugs that fit either Edelbrock or Offenhauser heads exactly without using spacers. I have acquired almost a dozen examples of them both new and used, and am performing an evaluation of spark plug fitment on them. It is beyond the scope of the present thread, so I will be doing another thread on the results I obtain in the near future.
 
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I personally would discount the first reference. It starts by saying : "The recommended reach for a Flathead Ford spark plug is 3/4 inch (approximately 19 mm)." I know of no flathead Ford heads for which this is true. Edelbrock and Offenhauser aftermarket finned aluminum heads will use a 3/4" reach plug, but require spacers for proper fit. Also, the problem is the exhaust valve hitting the plug, not the piston.

To answer the O/P's question, If it were my car, I would try to find better fitting plugs.
 
To answer the O/P's question, If it were my car, I would try to find better fitting plugs.
Thanks for all the replies. Per tubman, I tend to agree that a shrouded plug would not ignite the mixture as efficiently and possibly poorer starting behavior as well was one of my concerns.

Not having much luck finding a longer thread 18mm plug that isn't for some specific vintage or tractor application. I may have to go with Ronnieroadsters post #5 and call it a day. :)
 
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FIrst, a disclaimer. I am weak on knowledge of the larger (18mm and 7/8-18) spark plugs used in the earlier pre-war Fords. Have you tried "The Brillman Company". They carry a complete line of automotive electrical; items. And I don't fully understand your statement "Not having much luck finding a longer thread 18mm plug that isn't for some specific vintage or tractor application." So what if it is for some specific application? If it fits, use it. (I may be misunderstanding what you are saying.)
 
If you want the plug threads to be flush with the chambers, then there is a pretty easy "fix" to your problem.

As you have cast iron heads (stronger threads) and a very limited supply of 18mm plugs, then just take the heads to a machine shop (or buy the tool with a correct center arbor size and use a drill press or a milling machine) and spot-face the spark plug seating areas on the top-side of the heads.

You'll spot-face enough to lower the depth of the seating area and therefore the plug itself into the chamber.
 
And I don't fully understand your statement "Not having much luck finding a longer thread 18mm plug that isn't for some specific vintage or tractor application." So what if it is for some specific application? If it fits, use it. (I may be misunderstanding what you are saying.)
Tubman, I was finding 18mm plug with odd configurations for tractor applications like the ones below. No luck in finding one like the existing 18mm Autolite 386 with 1/8" longer reach and similar heat rating. Will pore over the Brillman site for a suitable plug. Thanks.

The only other option may be the one recommended by Bored&Stroked, spot facing the seat 1/8" lower.

Edit: Option 3. Go with Ronnieroadsters advice.

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