Combination crows foot/combination wrench

[katy]

I decided to make a crows foot socket to use on the "under the distributor" head nut. I selected an 11/16" combination wrench and a mid-sized 3/8" drive socket. My original intent was to weld the socket on the wrench near the "box" end and then cut off the rest of the wrench. Thinking about it for a while I decided to leave the wrench full length. I ground the top end of the socket at an angle so that when it was welded to the wrench it would be perpendicular to the "box" part.
And here's what came out:

 

[Dennis Pereira]

We need a like button .

 

[Mister Moose]

There's something I'm missing... a crows foot has an open end, not like a box wrench. How does this slide under the distributor since it is still a box wrench?

 

[katy]

Not all crows foot "sockets" are open end, some are like a box end wrench.
There's enough clearance for the box end to go under the distributor and onto the head nut. The "head nut wrench" that the vendors sell goes under the distributor.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

Funny, we have never referred to a "crows foot" wrench with a box end as a crows foot. It has always been called an "offset box" (wrench).

Only the open end ones were referred to as a "Crows Foot". The Snap-on catalog that I have does not even show a fully enclosed box end off set wrench.

 

[eagle]

If you are using this with a torque wrench you'll have to run it at a 90 degree angle to the bolt or the torque will not be accurate.

 

[katy]

If you are using this with a torque wrench you'll have to run it at a 90 degree angle to the bolt or the torque will not be accurate.

I'm aware of that, been "mechanicing" for well over 60 years.

 

[CarlG]

This is the wrench of choice in our club. Genuine Snap-On.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

This is the wrench of choice in our club. Genuine Snap-On.

In my 1980 Snap-on catalog the S8663B is referred to as a "Cylinder Head Wrench/Torque Adaptor".

I think they are multiplying in my tool box. I have three now??

 

[Synchro909]

This is the wrench of choice in our club. Genuine Snap-On.

I made my own one of those by cutting the appropriate sized socket in half and welding a piece of steel between them but it warped under the torque so I then welded another smaller piece to the back of the first at an angle to stiffen it under torque. So cheap and easy I carry one in each car.

 

[1931 flamingo]

Jeez guys, all you need is an open end wrench. Torque the other nuts, put an open end on one and try to tighten, now take the same force to the one under the dist. There were NO torque values when the A was built. Tight=tight. JMO
Paul in CT

 

[Mister Moose]

Jeez guys, all you need is an open end wrench. Torque the other nuts, put an open end on one and try to tighten, now take the same force to the one under the dist. There were NO torque values when the A was built. Tight=tight. JMO
Paul in CT

Exactly what I did - calibrate my arm on a known value, and apply it to the distributor nut. Glad to know there's others out there.

 

[nkaminar]

Tests have shown that experienced mechanics can tighten fasteners to about the correct torque, except for really large nuts and bolts.