Column shift lever slop

O

Oilslickwillie

Senior Member
Working on my shift rod and noticed a problem. I have a C4 with a column shifter. Can't seem to get the shift lever indicator needle on the column to match the gear that the ****** is in. When I tried adjusting the needle to match I discovered for example when it is in Park and you let go of the shift lever it slops down to almost Reverse even though the ****** is correct and in Park. Does the same for Reverse. Looks just to be the drop down slop on the shift lever. Question is, is there a way to tighten the lever so is does not drop down like that. If you pull the lever up slightly it would be in the correct position, but when you let it go it falls back down. Doing this does not change the gear selection, it only takes up the loose slop in the shift lever. Anyway to tighten this to eliminate the slop play? Any help appreciated.
 
Yes, no slop there. I can move the shift lever and the linkage to ****** does not move, just the shift lever moves on the column with the slop I described. Lever just moves from one point like Drive to Reverse without the actual shift linkage to the ****** moving. Just has play on column shift lever only.
 
It's hard to tell from your description. If you disconnect the trans linkage at the bottom of the column, and it still does it, it's slop in the detents in the column. Not surprising, when these were daily drivers we just kind of jerked them around. I don't know if that's a replaceable part, or if you have to rework it. I've always had that with floor shifters. On those, it's remove, weld, file etc. it sounds like this is the problem.

If the column is good when disconnected, there's loose holes/bushings. Or, on an off topic car, it was the difference between the original and replacement trans arm and the travels. A custom length arm let everything line up.
 
I'm not sure what you're working on but symptoms sound like it might be this little detent piece. I used to work Ford parts and we sold a crapload of them, most were complaints about slop in the shifter so you might check & see if you have this piece in your column, and if it is worn.

It was a long time ago when I used to sell them but I think there are 2 or 3 different ones so you'd need to check application. The base Ford # is 7A216.

Here is a link to one that's listed in Mac's, not sure if it's the one you might need but will give you an idea of what to look at:

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_f...nt-1965-falcon-c4-automatic-transmission.html

Hope it helps
 
I think Raceron and Mike are on to something. I believe it is this detent plate as you describe. Now all I have to do is find one and figure out how to install it since right now I have no idea.
 
Will a Falcon one work on a 1955 Ford. Also, how difficult to replace. I pulled the steering wheel and restored it with no problem. How far in the column do you have to go to replace the detent plate? Never did that before.
 
Oilslickwillie said:
Will a Falcon one work on a 1955 Ford. Also, how difficult to replace. I pulled the steering wheel and restored it with no problem. How far in the column do you have to go to replace the detent plate? Never did that before.
Click to expand...

If it is a stock '55 steering column I'm not sure but I don't think they have one of the detent plates. Here's a parts book image of the column and location of the detent plate for 66-67 Comet. Fairlanes and others might look similar.

Detent.jpg
 
I have a 48 Ford with a 302 and a C4. The column is one of those swing aways (modified so it doesn't swing) out of a Thunderbird. I made up the shifting linkage using different ford parts. I have the same problem as you but since everything works ok even if a little loose, I have learned to live with it as it's not a big deal.. The detents for 2nd and 1st are a little off, but everything works
 
Everything works okay, it's just that it has slop only at the shift lever, not in the linkage to the ******. Biggest problem is it goes into Reverse real easy. Afraid if I leave the car running it could drop down into reverse. Need to find a fix for that problem.
 
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Now, don't shoot me here, I think you should fix it. But in the meantime how about jury rigging a spring down on the linkage end, and just put a little pressure to hold it up.

Dad grew up on a farm, and sometimes I can't put my past behind me.
 
Miker, I don't think that will work. There is no movement on the linkage side, no play there. The only play is at the column shift arm. While in Park, you can move the shift lever up about 3/4" and when you let it go, it drops back down to the original position. This has no effect on linkage movement at all. Does it in Reverse also. Also, without hardly any pressure you can barely push down on the shift lever and it will go from Park to Reverse. Something must be worn internally. Don't even have to pull lever toward you to go from Park to Reverse, just gently push down and it will change gears. I would never leave the car run in Park, that's for sure. I would leave it run in neutral with emergency brake on. I read where someone with this same problem left his car run in Park and shifter dropped down into Reverse and car slammed into his garage door. Don't need that problem.
Can't seem to find repair parts for a shifter for a 1955 Ford Fairlane.
If you or anyone knows or thinks they know what parts are available and where, I would appreciate it.
Can't get back to car till next week to tear into it (daughter graduates from collage) so don't know if it has a worn detent plate (if it even has one), or worn parts on end of shift lever. Any help or advise would be appreciated.
 
Sure sounds like worn parts, that's the same symptoms I've seen in floor shifts.

Congrats on the daughter's success. We're working on the grandkids now.
 
Had time to tear into my steering column. Took it apart all the way down past the turn signal mechanism, nothing else to remove. I found out there is not a detent plate on my steering column.
The shift lever sits below the collar and is on a separate tube. To take the shift lever off, you have to remove a pin to pull it out. Could not get it to remove so will tackle that later. I checked all over, under the dash, etc., and do not see anything that is causing the slop or slack. I did check below the firewall where the shift linkage lever connects. There is a collar right below that lever and on that lever is a grease fitting. Could it be that it is low on grease and that is causing the slop. I don't see anything else that could cause it. Only other thing is at the end of the shift lever. Is there a part there that could be worn, don't know what is located there until I am able to get the pin out holding it on. Need to find a drawing showing what parts are there.
If you have a diagram, I would appreciate seeing it.
(Raceron, thanks for the diagram, but mind does not look like that.). The shift lever is on its own shaft down through the firewall, does not go into a collar..
 
Oilslickwillie said:
(Raceron, thanks for the diagram, but mind does not look like that.). The shift lever is on its own shaft down through the firewall, does not go into a collar..
Click to expand...

I posted that diagram before I knew what year you were working. It was a very common problem with many of the mid 60s Fords/Mercs. I have a '56 Fairlane but it's a 4spd so don't have the shifter problem you describe with your '55.
 
The Hot Rod Reverend has a blog post on rebuilding a 55. His is a manual/floor shift. But he's got a number of manual on CD. Andy he's very knowledgable on these cars. Might be worth sending him a message, I haven't seen him post in a while. Probably thrashing to finish the project as spring arrives.
 
Fellas,

Let me chime in here... I have not been able to do much lately because of my travel schedule and the foul weather - much of what i need to do is paint and mother nature has not been kind. Then my air compressor went out for 3 weeks and I chased down a bad start capacitor and then my pressure washer went down and I chased down a pvc elbow to fix that, yada, yada, my wife drove through some smoke and explosive particles on an interstate and made the entire finish of our 2013 Chrysler Town and Country feel and look like sandpaper. Just got done buffing that this morning - over 10 hours on that project!!! But enough about me - let's get down to it on this shifter problem.

Photo 1


This is a 55 Ford shift shaft and lever. The "detent" in question is in good shape and is case hardened steel. Usually on these shifters you do not have a problem here. This one is in good repair and is in great shape.

Photo 2


Inside the shifter shaft is small round solid washer that is pushing against the end of the shifter lever because there is a heavy duty spring behind it. THIS IS IMPORTANT! It keeps the detent in the right place once you have moved into park, etc. Check to see that this is in place and has enough pressure on the lever (I do not know the spec, but it should surely keep it pretty tight against the lever end.)

Photo 3

Photo 4


Photos 3 and 4 are most probably where your issue lies. The case hardened end of the shift lever rides against the bottom of the steering column cup (that's what I call it anyway). You can see the flat part of the cup is intact but on an automatic 55/56 Ford column this cup is in two pieces. If you look at Photo 3 and examine the left most portion of the flat part of the cup at the top of the steering column, you can tell where the shifter shaft and where the detent at the end of the shift lever engages/disengages.

The problem: case hardened steel is riding against pot metal and the pot metal wears out. If you look closely at Photos 3 and 4 you can see where this one is getting pretty thin. People did not always pull the shift lever completely towards them to shift into Park and at times it would just slide over. That's fine if it doesn't hurt your transmission, but each time this would happen you would have case hardened steel slide against pot metal. We all know the result of that given multiplied thousands of times. If the pot metal gives way at that point then your shifter will not hold park. The metal needed to hold the detent in place would essentially be missing.

I would instruct you to look there first, especially since you have it apart right?

Can you post a photo or two? What does your cup bottom look like?
 
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