Columbia shifting problem

L

Low 31

Member
I have had no problems for over 35 years and am now having a slow or no shift problem. I rebuilt the vacuum canister and then traced it to the electric solenoids. Does anyone know how to repair them, it
is an original valve body. Will they work on 12 volts?
I would like to rewind the coils and need info on how to do them.
Thanks,
Norm
 
Low 31 said:
I have had no problems for over 35 years and am now having a slow or no shift problem. I rebuilt the vacuum canister and then traced it to the electric solenoids. Does anyone know how to repair them, it
is an original valve body. Will they work on 12 volts?
I would like to rewind the coils and need info on how to do them.
Thanks,
Norm
Click to expand...

Sounds like either the seal on the shift arm on the front of the rear
is bad and sucking air and oil into the vacuum shift cylinder. This
seal is in the end of the shift cylinder. Take the hose off the cylinder
closest to the center of the rear. If it is full of black oil that shows the
seal is leaking. These are stock seals available from bearing supply
companies. The leather cups in the cylinder also dry out and make
shifting sluggish. Remove the hoses and pour Marvel Mystery Oil in
both sides of the cylinder to soak and soften the cups. G.M.
 
I have a similar problem. John in Temecula Ca. does not have any new or NOS solenoids, He only carries rebuild kit's( 2 gasket and 2 sealing washers). My shift problem is that my solenoid monetarily drops out or sticks in Hi range. Its drives me nuts. It's hard to diagnose, I am thinking about getting Mr. Connleys street valve to replace the original. Good luck in getting the coil's rewound, If you find some one , Please relay the INFO.
 
trike84 said:
I have a similar problem. John in Temecula Ca. does not have any new or NOS solenoids, He only carries rebuild kit's( 2 gasket and 2 sealing washers). My shift problem is that my solenoid monetarily drops out or sticks in Hi range. Its drives me nuts. It's hard to diagnose, I am thinking about getting Mr. Connleys street valve to replace the original. Good luck in getting the coil's rewound, If you find some one , Please relay the INFO.
Click to expand...

50 years ago we used to use motor starting capacitors across the
coil of a contactor or relay to delay the drop out when the supply
voltage was cut off. The size and current of the relay coil determines
the size and time is determined by mfd's of the cap. It's strange your
solenoid drops out, I would suspect a sudden instant loss of voltage
to the coil of the solenoid. The voltage to pull the solenoid in may be
6.2 or so but after it is pulled in the voltage to hold it in is much less.
If you have a variable DC voltage supply hook it up to the solenoid
and watch the volt meter as you bring the voltage up and see where
it pulls in then slowly lower the voltage and see where it drops out. G.M.
 
trike84 said:
I have a similar problem. John in Temecula Ca. does not have any new or NOS solenoids, He only carries rebuild kit's( 2 gasket and 2 sealing washers). My shift problem is that my solenoid monetarily drops out or sticks in Hi range. Its drives me nuts. It's hard to diagnose, I am thinking about getting Mr. Connleys street valve to replace the original. Good luck in getting the coil's rewound, If you find some one , Please relay the INFO.
Click to expand...

You can rewind the coil if it comes apart. I rewound some similar coils
for Stewart/Warner electric speedo changers used on the old ford trucks.
Other truck makers used the same changer. I rewound them for 6 volts
using different size magnet wire. I used a gear reduction from an old GE
ice maker, operated by a foot switch and a number counter that you hand click to count people. I used a fender washer with an offset hole for the cam to click the counter. I guess I did this over 25 years ago, the changers
are still working and the winder is still at the shop. I'll have to take a picture and post it. Looks like a rube Goldberg contraption. G.M.
 
VERY often the seals within the solenoid begin to leak. I would bet heavily this is the issue you are dealing with.
It is very easy to replace the seals. The modern ethanol based fuels attack those seals vigorously.

I have never found a winding to go "bad" on this type of control. That does not mean to suggest it can't or does not happen. Just saying the "odds" are the seals are bad and the solenoids are just fine.
There is no need to reinvent the proverbial wheel here as some might suggest.
John Connelly, as has been previously advised, is very helpful with the Columbia controls. He will rebuild it for you or if you feel able, you can get a kit from him and do it yourself.
 
If the solenoid is working know and then i would check and resolder the connecting points where the magnet wire attach first.
If its shorting out from wires rubbing to each other inside the solenoid getting it vacuum treated with varnish at a motor rewind shop could be a quickfix perhaps.
 
Thanks for the Electrical troubleshooting. It has to be grounding out. I have two light's in the switch harness, 1 to monitor power when I engage clutch and one to confirm power to the HI Side. some times when I engage the clutch both light up . also I have a slight nick in the seat of the HI side of the solenoid . I have tried to grind it down with valve compound, any way to soften up the rubber seal but not degrade it ( to soft) so it could conform to the seat better. Thanks again.
 
I installed a check valve in each of the lines going to the Columbia shift module, filled with Marvel Mystery oil to keep components from drying out.
 
I have mine operating on 12 volt, it it just momentary unless you hold the clutch down to the floor. I use a starter button mounted under the carpet. The button is activated when the pedal is pushed completely to the floor. I either ride the clutch or put it in neutral at a traffic light as not to overheat the solenoid.
 
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