Columbia / Rear end problem.

35cab

35cab

Senior Member
After 500 miles I noticed some oil on garage floor under rear end, upon crawling under car noticed gasket sticking out of banjo (fairly obvious!) All the nuts were only slightly more than hand tight. There are lock washers and as I say axle was rebuilt and has only done 500 miles.
I hope I am lucky and have discovered this before any major damage was done.
The only causes I can think of are vibration or the bolts were not torqued up properly, anyone ever had this happen?
See attached photo.
 

Attachments

  • axle.jpg
    axle.jpg
    78.1 KB · Views: 87
This shouldn't have happened and I don't think what you are talking about is any different than an axle over here.Shouldn't be any lockwashers used on bolts axle housings to banjo,no lockwashers were used,the cap screws have sorta of a tapered seat that is between hex and threads that are designed to seal,lockwashers would defeat this purpose. I wish Henry would have designed banjo housing with blind holes that would have prevented leaks but would be more troublesome and costly to drill and tap in production.
 
Thanks 37 coupe, I had fairly thin star lock washers on. I just assumed there should have been some kind of lockwasher there. Your explanation makes sense.
Does anyone use "Loctite" or similar?
Also what torque should these bolts be?
 
No washers or loctite on mine, but did have to retighten several banjo bolts after a few hundred miles. That was four years ago and no problems since then.
 
35cab said:
Thanks 37 coupe, I had fairly thin star lock washers on. I just assumed there should have been some kind of lockwasher there. Your explanation makes sense.
Does anyone use "Loctite" or similar?
Also what torque should these bolts be?
Click to expand...
I used Permatex High Tack gasket sealer spray on gaskets and screw threads, but always get some leaks anyway on capscrews,even using blue loctite on threads or the old standby original permatex Formagasket. Like I said how neat it would have been to not have all holes compromise a leaking problem by designing banjo with blind tapped holes.
 
The good news is you caught it. Since its on the left side you can put the car on jackstands and undo the spring and slide the housing off to replace the gasket. Just be sure to use one of the same thickness and use no lockwashers on the banjo bolts.
 
Some people rebuilding early Ford banjos make the mistake of running a thread tap through the banjo threads, which straightens out the taper and eliminating the interference fit that is supposed to keep them tight and from leaking. Once it's done, it's done.

Here's what I'd do. While replacing the gasket (shim, has to be the same thickness or combination of, if there are multiples) on that side, remove all of the bolts that are below the oil level on the other side as well, flush it out really good with a solvent of your choice (to get the threads clean so the LocTite will seal) and use LocTite on the bolts when putting it back together. Check out standard torque specs for 3/8 SAE bolts and torque it to that, I think I did mine to about 30-35 ft lbs., can't remember.

I don't see any problems with using a lockwasher, especially thin star washers, although others may disagree.

After that, just get into the habit of checking them when you're under the car, at oil changes, or whatever works for you.
 
Last edited:
interesting thread, I recently received an original columbia rear (untouched) and have found two of the bolt heads on the torque tube to banjo snapped off, safety wire still intact. Are these rear ends subject to torques when shifting different than standard rears.

thanks
 
Many thanks everyone, I have actually dropped the axle out as I have a leak at torque tube as well. This will allow me to take it apart easily, clean it properly and replace gasket etc.
Thanks again for taking the trouble to respond, what a great place this Fordbarn is.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top