Columbia Install Pinion Backlash Procedure

Joe KCMO

Joe KCMO

Senior Member
Having read the Columbia install instructions, every post I could find here on Fordbarn and completing the rebuild of my 1939 Columbia half rear axle begins the prep stage for me. I cannot determine the best or quickest or easiest way to adjust the pinion backlash.
Columbia install notes the torque tube can remain connected to banjo. The best procedure I have read involves rocking pinion and changing gasket until acceptable backlash . Columbia instructions appear to be quidelines not detailed instructions. Any and all comments or suggestions welcome. Thankyou!
 
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It is not very hard just a bit time consuming. I have used John Deats instructions, as Glenn has posted above, but then use the ford instructions as well, since they include a couple of more test.
 
Instructions from John Deats makes sense. I bought parts and and modified spider gear and housing.

Can you post the Columbia/Ford instructions you mention?
 
Attached is a PDF that was captured by a standard axle rebuilt on the HAMB. It is long, but includes a lot of pictures, tooling/press work, etc.. Also, it goes into more depth on the type of contact patterns you should see between the R&P. There is more to think about than just backlash and preload.

Also, I've included a couple Winters QC setup documents - they go into some of the similar things you need to be thinking about (as setting up a QC includes a lot of the same basic stuff as a banjo - just more to think about).

I've added a picture of a fixture I made to hold a banjo center section on an engine stand - is handy for a lot of the work.

View attachment The Jalopy Journal Banjo Rebuild thread complete.pdf

View attachment Street Rod Tech Manual.pdf

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Great information that I am currently and continue to read until all have been read, hoping to be understood. Thank you all as always . Had the car for 22 years time for an upgrade!
 
I have rebuilt 7 Columbias using Deat's method. The first one was done over thirty years ago and is still going strong. One thing I don't get in step 2 A&B is why assemble the carrier assembly with the axles, and in the case of a Columbia why assemble the guts for this step. It seems to me that the point is to determine the crush between the carrier bearings and the housings and the addition of the extra parts just increases the effort. Any thoughts by Columbia builders?
 
As Ken said you need to remove the torque tube. Get your carrier preload set first with the gasket thickness on both sides of the banjo housing and then work in pinion backlash. It is a time and bulky process but needs to be done properly. I’ve done hundreds of old ford rear axles and it is not brain surgery but there is a process and it needs to be done properly.
The Columbia side complicates it somewhat but still needs to be done.
Once you total gasket thickness is determined in the carriers you can shift it left or right with thinner gasket thickness to get your pinion backlash set.
John Connelly at Columbia two speed may have a written process on it for Columbias but it really doesn’t vary from a standard rear end.
Larry Shepard
 
I have rebuilt 7 Columbias using Deat's method. The first one was done over thirty years ago and is still going strong. One thing I don't get in step 2 A&B is why assemble the carrier assembly with the axles, and in the case of a Columbia why assemble the guts for this step. It seems to me that the point is to determine the crush between the carrier bearings and the housings and the addition of the extra parts just increases the effort. Any thoughts by Columbia builders?

Hypothetically, how would the gasket thicknesses be determined using which less parts. Do not the parts between the races get squeezed. Too much thinking this end. Comments from experience as Cool Cat suggested. I have an empty case.
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Joe
Just easier to assemble once with axles in and then you know nothing changes. It’s really not that big a deal.
 
Also, you have to really pay attention if you're going to use a new reproduction R&P.

Sometimes the pinion needs to move forward or backward for proper mesh, sometimes the ring gear drags on the housing a bit, sometimes the backlash is hard to set, etc..

If you're never built a banjo rear with Henry's parts, then I suggest you work with somebody who has if you're installing a new R&P.
 
Don’t forget to replace the axle seals located inside the outer ends of the axle housings. Also remember to tape up the axle ends with electrical tape to prevent the sharp edges of the axle keyway from cutting the seal.
 
For those who have installed several banjo rear axles, is it easier to remove the entire rear and torque tube as a unit. Then disassemble rather then working under the car. Is it a lot more work but worth it, or a matter of preference.
 
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