Columbia inspection

M

Mac29

Member
I want to crack my Columbia open to check condition . I never have took one apart. I know some of you guys would crack these things in parking lots. So what's the best way of going about opening this?
 
No way you are going to "check it in a parking lot". You have to pull the rear end apart and open up the planatary gear carrier to check the things that may be cracked.
 
Here, the picture was to big.
 

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Thanks Bob!
Do I need to pull the vacuum canister off first? Do I unbolt at the bango or the side of the Columbia unit?
 
Remove brake assemblies as units without a columbia. Yes, take the canister off first. Pull the drivers side bell. Pull the ring gear. Break the Columbia from the center section. At that point disassemble the columbia, pretty straight forward. Check assemblies for cracks. If the unit has sat unused for an extended time ,years, the clutch is likely bad. Also check bearings and an overall inspection. A lot of work.
Get a copy of the parts list and install instructions for parts identification. If you get it apart, you should replace a few items.

Contact: Columbiatwospeedparts.com, John Connelly, in Cottonwood Arizona
 
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The installation instructions are good so do them it in reverse also use the parts diagram. Remove the shift assembly from the side of the axle housing so it doesn't get damaged. Yes then remove the LH axle housing, note the thickness of the gasket and then the ring gear. Note all the bolts attaching the ring are special and have to be reused or replaced with new special bolts. Their shoulder is larger in diameter than 3/8". Remove the LH axle and the spider and gears plus washers and then slide the RH axle out. Then remove the RH axle housing from the side of the Ford banjo and note gasket thickness. With the RH housing off you can remove the A-17 assembly. Final MAJOR disassembly is the RH outer axle housing A-1 to the Columbia cast iron carrier bearing race assembly A-6. At this point you can disassemble the A-17 assembly and the A-32 clutch. When you reassemble replace gaskets with same thickness. John has a good write up on his web site "columbiatwospeed.com" what to look for to make sure it is "bullett proof" and what the clutch should not look like.

Hope you don't mind the smell of used gear lube! Wear gloves
 
Hi Terry and all,


I was thinking yesterday about changing my clutch pack, getting rid of the cork and using John Connolly's kit with better material. To save work and keeping the weight down I was thinking about this option to avoid dealing with all the weight of an assembled rear. I have no help so need to do this by my old self ;-)

http://www.columbiatwospeedparts.com/A-32-synchro-clutch.cfm

- Put rear end on jack stands
- Jack and remove spring from shackles
- Remove vacuum unit
- Disconnect right rear brake lines and emergency cable
- Remove right wheel axle nut and brake drum.
- Unbolt the right side Columbia axle housing, part A-1
- Tilt housing to let control arm, part A-37 through vacuum unit mount hole or?
- Slide housing A-1 off of right side axle. Axle stays in place.
- Remove clutch part A-33 Drive Clutch off of axle
- Remove A-32 Synchro Clutch for rebuild

Glenn
 
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I rebuilt my clutch last week and today revised the steps I posted above for the record. there are a couple of pictures also included in the attached pdf write-up.

Glenn
 

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When you reassemble the clutch make sure to follow instructions included in the kit. since your going to have it apart you should do a complete inspection. Do you know if the Columbia has been bullet proofed. if not I would think a complete inspection is mandatory. A few areas to look for hair line cracks. This could save a lot of heart ache.
 
Thanks Terry, good advice.

The rest of my unit has been inspected and had no cracks. For longevity, the A-17 basket was reinforced welded and the A-24 differential housing was banded with a Cr-Mo steel band. The clutch was replaced by a good unit but didn't get my eyes on it so as years go by, it was a concern to me. In in fact still had great cork and no adhesion of the cork in the barrel. John Deats did this work for me.

I feel better now and the shifts are quieter too.

Glenn
 
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