Cold start NO, warm start YES

Diastole

Diastole

Senior Member
I am new to early Fords.
I need some help with a dilemma

1946 Ford Woodie


The car runs great, once it has started. The engine has been overhauled, the carb has been overhauled, it has a new gas delivery system (with gas always being in the glass bowl), new radiator, new water pumps, etc.
BUT
I have a nagging problem with being able to start the car if I leave it sitting for over a week or so. It consistently seems to not be getting any gas to start.

SO, I have to start it with a friend squirting Ignition Fluid into the air filter, with its cap removed. The car then starts immediately after one or two squirts of the fluid. And it then runs just fine. And if I turn off the car, I can easily restart it.

The car's gas pump is the original mechanical one. If the car has been sitting around too long, no gas gets to the engine when I try to start the car. Even after 15 attempts to start it. I don't think it is the carb's fault, but I am not sure.

Any suggestions
Any diagnosis thoughts

Diastole
 
I have the same issue with my stock '46 Coupe, when I come back home from a drive, park the car, then leave it for a week or two. With the heat from the engine, and time sitting, the gas in the float bowel evaporates. If left for only a day or two, no problem. In my case I installed an electric fuel pump, that I use to "prime" the carb, if the car has sat for a week or two. If I don't use the electric pump, the engine will start, it just takes 10 to 15 seconds of cranking to get fuel for it to start.
 
You might have an air leak on the suction side of the fuel pump. The lid gasket might be leaking. The fuel line might have a pinhole. It might be struggling to pick up fuel at cranking speed but can overcome the leaks when running. Pure guesswork and not guaranteed to be the problem.

My 41 pickup always needs cranking a bit before it fires. I find full choke helps.

You might have slightly leaky valves in the fuel pump allowing fuel to leak back to the tank. If the valves are good, the leaks at the locations I mentioned will also allow fuel to drain back and will also hamper priming.
 
If theory #1 is accurate:
How can I fill the carb and/or the bowl after the fuel has evaporated?

Theory #2
How can I check the seals, fuel pump valves, etc


Theory #3, fuel line crack
Careful and close inspection. Wrap with cellophane and test and re-inspect

Any other thoughts?


Diastole
 
yes, I do that with the ignition fluid (methanol)
But, is there a way from the cab? 30 years ago someone installed a 6V fuel pump, that has long since failed.
for instance, extended cranking with throttle closed, attempt to crank then let sit for 10 mins, install a fuel pump

Diastole
 
Theory 1: pump the gas pedal 3-4 times while holding the choke full closed, close choke halfway when engine kicks over, throttle the gas pedal as necessary to keep it running till it smooths out.
Theory 2: disconnect fuel line from carb, ignition off, direct the line into a mayonnaise jar, crank the engine. Should almost immediately deliver strong surging squirts into the jar.
Theory 3: constant flow of air bubbles visible in the glass bowl.
 
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