Coil help ?

BUBBAS IGNITION

Well-known member
We get over 100 emails each and every day and some days 15-20 phone calls regarding ignition issues etc.
And thats fine ,as thats what we do for a living and certaintly dont mind helping anytime we can.
The highest problem is coil problems, so maybe this post will help.

Basically a coil is a coil is a coil etc and hasnt changed much especially when talking a standard oil filled coil either 6 or 12 volt.
There are three types used on all our cars.
1- A 1.5 ohm primary resistance ( pretty standard coil to be used with a 1.5 ressitor) Contact points usually..

2- A 3-4 ohm primary resistance coil ( internal resistor ) used on the four cylinders . Many use them on a V8 as well but we dont suggest it , based on inductance and overall design of the coil.

3- A .3-.5 ohm coil ( less than one ohm) This coil must have electronic module control to handle the current. Suggested use would be using a GM HEI control or MSD box etc. Higher than normal current draw..

Pretty standard with contact points is to use a 1.5 ohm coil with a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor. Interesting that the use of a 1.5 ohm resitor drops approx 6 volts allowing six volts at the coil. Meaning that a 1.5 ohm coil on a six volt car just wouldnt need the resistor.

Coil testing is pretty easy with a volt ohm meter.
Hook the meter across the positive and negative terminals to measure the resistance of the primary.

coil15_zpsdc86d90e.jpg


This is a low ohm coil for electronic ignition system and high current only !

Secondary resistance is measure by hooking to one of the primary terminals and the center output tower of the coil.

coil1000_zps76606723.jpg


There may be 50 coils in the shop and most of them are very good and useable IN THE CORRECT APPLICATION. !!

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A COUPLE NOTES:

A flathead seldom needs wide plug gaps and high energy ignition based on the fact that no matter what you do to the engine it will still be a flathead with valves in the block and somewhat low compression ratios.

Ignition output is always based on actual needs of the plug tip in the combustion chamber. A high output coil ( marketing issue) will only provide what the engine asks for. If a engine idles using 5000 volts and a high output coil is installed it will still idle using 5000 volts.

Higher current means higher heat somewhere in the system. Ever wander why NASCAR allows two MSD ignition system per car???? Very high current draw = high heat and control failures from time to time.

You need to watch my video series of "teknical" tips and spark output testing here:

http://www.lindertech.com/bubbasgarage.htm
 
Bubba, I really appreciate informative posts like these. I am very impressed with your knowledge and am very grateful for your willingness to give your time and expertise to help us. Thank-you,....Matt in alameda
 
I have seen this video by Bubba a few times over the last few years and I laugh out loud each time. He is a funny guy. I have 2 of Bubba's distributors and they have been trouble free. I just hope some big time video guy doesn't offer Bubba a fat contract offer and he quits the ignition business.
John
 
Yes this is very informative. sometimes hard to explain why 40,000 volts doesn't make am engine run better.
One question relating to a flathead. Is is it necessary to use a .4 ohm coil? won't the 1.5 work just as well, without the resistor? less current, cooler operation?
 
Yes this is very informative. sometimes hard to explain why 40,000 volts doesn't make am engine run better.
One question relating to a flathead. Is is it necessary to use a .4 ohm coil? won't the 1.5 work just as well, without the resistor? less current, cooler operation?

Actually Ron , i cant think of a reason to use a .4 ohm coil on a flathead.
We suggest using a 1.5 ohm ( 6 volot) and a 1.5 ohm with a 1.5 ohm ressitor with 12 volt system...

Also if you have a flathead engine using 40,000 volts the system is very broken with open circuits everywhere.
Wide open throttle and climbing pikes peak the engine would never need 40,000 volts...:eek::D
 
Bubba, I wish you had been my auto elec. instructor back in the day. This topic explained so much smoother. Were all smarter for reading, thanks.:D
 
However the HEI module should operate the 1.6 ohm coil at less current, and without the resistor draw less current.
What coil/resistor would you reccomend for a flathead using the HEI module.?
 
However the HEI module should operate the 1.6 ohm coil at less current, and without the resistor draw less current.
What coil/resistor would you reccomend for a flathead using the HEI module.?

Ron,
The GM hei module needs a .5 ohm coil to activate the current limiting and coil controls designed in the module.
The hei uses a variable dwell based on rpm.
A GM hei with a .5 coil will ramp and fire in 3.6 mili seconds at 5.5 amps per design.
The best coil control offered for the time!

Although it would and does operate a 1.5 coil I would use a .5

I have a few of these laying around if ya need one , they are used and I would just donate for your project...:eek::)
 
Legend Bubba..
Went and had a look at car with my boss on the weekend [he wants a Aussie muscle car]Had a MSD system, The young fell said "yeah its a ready to run" setup ..I laughed and said, very rare they will be ready to run.. Does this one have the weights in the top..? he didnt know..Ran like ****..
Personally for a mild street car, I like HEI with just the standard bosch coil to match. So many times I've said to people dont buy stuff with flashy stickers on it with "high voltage" or bright colours as they do nothing..or make the car run worse!

Thanks for taking the time to explain..
 
Well I have a problem running the 1.5 ohm coil, the moduel doesn't like to fire it. However, I may be using the wring Chinese Module.
 
Ron are you using a 4 pin module? You should be running a coil of around .4 ohms. no resistor. and it must get 12 volts +
 
Basically a coil is a coil is a coil etc and hasnt changed much especially when talking a standard oil filled coil either 6 or 12 volt.
There are three types used on all our cars.
1- A 1.5 ohm primary resistance ( pretty standard coil to be used with a 1.5 ressitor) Contact points usually..

2- A 3-4 ohm primary resistance coil ( internal resistor ) used on the four cylinders . Many use them on a V8 as well but we dont suggest it , based on inductance and overall design of the coil.

3- A .3-.5 ohm coil ( less than one ohm) This coil must have electronic module control to handle the current. Suggested use would be using a GM HEI control or MSD box etc. Higher than normal current draw..

Jim - I'm running a 3-4 ohm internally resisted coil on my stock distributor V8 (in an effort to not have to mount a ballast resistor somewhere on the car). Based off your comment, you would suggest replacing it with a 1.5 ohm coil with a 1.5ohm resister?

Just looking to get the best performance out of what I have......

For what it's worth, I do have one of your electronic crab setups on another car!
 
Jim - I'm running a 3-4 ohm internally resisted coil on my stock distributor V8 (in an effort to not have to mount a ballast resistor somewhere on the car). Based off your comment, you would suggest replacing it with a 1.5 ohm coil with a 1.5ohm resister?

Just looking to get the best performance out of what I have......

For what it's worth, I do have one of your electronic crab setups on another car!

We dont suggest using the internal 3-4 ohm on a v8 application. However many people run the Bosch blue ( a very good coil) with the flathead engines. I think the low rpm band allows this to work out ok.
If the engine is running good i would leave it as is.
I get the question all the time from people wanting hotter spark. My thinking is if the car is running and starting good dont bother it.:eek::D
 
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