Clutch shaft replacement

stewwolfe

stewwolfe

Senior Member
I pulled my brake and clutch pedals today to pull my steering box and discovered that the shaft is badly worn. I want to replace it, but can't see a way to remove the pin without going into the bell housing, which entails either pulling the engine or rear end. Does anybody know of a method of pulling the pin without driving it out from below (inside the bell housing)?
 
Is there room to grind off the head and drive it into the bell housing? Then retrieve the pin with a magnet or through the radius ball hole? Just a thought.
 
The pins are tapered. You stand a good chance of cracking the clutch housing boss by doing that way.
 
Glenn C. said:
The pins are tapered. You stand a good chance of cracking the clutch housing boss by doing that way.
Click to expand...
Glenn, the original pins are not tapered, they are rivets with a peened head on top and bottom. I have removed many by using a sharp chisel and cut the top head off. Drive the pin down and just before it gets to the bottom and comes out grab it with a wire or grabber with 4 fingers available at most auto parts and drive it on out. To replace it just put in the new shaft with the holes aligned and drive the new pin in. No need to peen it on the bottom since it has as much chance of coming out as I do winning the lottery.
 
I was thinking about cutting the head off and driving it through into the bell housing. I just looked through the inspection port/throw out bearing grease hole and there is plenty of room to drive it through. I just hadn't thought of it when I asked the question. Thanks for the quick feedback. The pin doesn't appear to be tapered, it looks like a straight 1/4 inch pin with a round head.
 
I have restored a lot of bell housings and all were sitting on a work bench. Some were easy, some were difficult. I have heard it can be done while still installed in the car. I would never attempt it. You could very easily paint yourself into a corner.

Tom Endy
 
Compare the diameter of the new shaft on the inner end with the old one as I,ve found some of the repops are a few thou larger & could crack the bore if you tried to drive it in.I wind several wraps of emery cloth around the shaft & pull it back & forth until the shaft end is the correct size.
 
I did 1 few years back pin would only go halfway do not remember what I did maybe ran drill bit thru
 
I have had similar experiences to ColumbiA...the shafts lately are too big and will need to have the diameter reduced or you can crack the casting trying to get it in there. caution.... and I agree with Tom that I cannot imagine trying this in the car.

Well, I can imagine it, but it sounds like a nightmare compared to just pulling it out and working on a bench.

If your really determined not to pull the trans, often new bushings will tighten the pedals up quite a bit even though the shaft is worn. Then you can wait until the inevitable time when the trans must come out for something else
 
Last edited:
I'll put a micrometer on both to compare their sizes. Thanks for the tip, I really don't want to have to find a new bell housing.
 
I had the same dilemma as stewwolfe. I bought a kit with new bushings and shaft. I installed the new bushings in the pedals but the old shaft was really worn. I did as James Rogers suggested. Getting the old rivet out was easy, I had an assistant catch the rivet with a magnet. The old shaft came right out. The new shaft needed a little polishing with fine emery cloth before it would slide in. The new pin was the hardest part. Its tapered and didn't want to go in all the way. A little filing and it went all but the last 1/4 inch
Thanks Ford Barn!
 
Ca. Kid said:
I had the same dilemma as stewwolfe. I bought a kit with new bushings and shaft. I installed the new bushings in the pedals but the old shaft was really worn. I did as James Rogers suggested. Getting the old rivet out was easy, I had an assistant catch the rivet with a magnet. The old shaft came right out. The new shaft needed a little polishing with fine emery cloth before it would slide in. The new pin was the hardest part. Its tapered and didn't want to go in all the way. A little filing and it went all but the last 1/4 inch
Thanks Ford Barn!
Click to expand...

I found a 5/16 hardened split pin works very well. Just my way.
 
I also have had similar experiences to ColumbiA and others with the repro shafts too large.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top