Clutch install

B

Boxhead

Senior Member
Hi All,

I am putting my resurfaced flywheel and a new clutch/pressure plate. I have a couple of questions hopefully I can get some guidance on.

1. Is there a shim required behind the flywheel when installing as it is contacting the engine slightly which when bolts are tightened jams the flywheel.

2. How many mm ( on average) do you have to pull the pressure plate down to secure to the flywheel, I have about 10mm to pull in, which would put pressure on the plate. Just wondering if this is to much? It is a new 11inch clutch plate and a new pressure plate.

Cheers

Corey

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk
 
Might want to add car yr. Maybe inches also for us American folk. :). I'm joking.

You don't need to shim it on a normal flywheel install. Maybe wrong flywheel for the engine.

Linkage adjustment is usual about 1/2" play pedal to throwout.
 
Yeah good call sorry mate, Truck is a 42 ford 1 1/2 tonne truck, but has an 8BA engine in it now ( 51 ). The clutch plate when bolting to the flywheel is the distance I am meaning , before I start to bolt it down there is around ( 3/8 to 1/2 inch) to pull it down to mate with the flywheel surface ( clutch plate in between them). Just wondering if that is normally the case.

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk
 
Check that flywheel,,,,,I can’t imagine it contacting the block after being installed and tightened.
That is a great concern .
Since it is a resurfaced piece it should go back like it was .
I am assuming they surfaced the correct side,,,,and you put it on the correct way as well .

Tommy
 
When I put the 49 mercury engine in the 46 1-1/2 ton truck the original truck flywheel hit the back of the block, that got shaved off on a brake lathe ,then I found the ring gear was in a little different position and the bendix would not fully engage the ring gear--- took a bendix apart and modified it so the gear would move further by grinding some off the gear, this was done long before the Internet so there was nobody to tell me it wouldn't work
 
No shim between the flywheel and crank. I do not think there are even any washers on the bolts. When installing the clutch the pressure plate will begin to snug up and the distance to the flywheel will be the thickness of the clutch plate. Gradually tighten each bolt so the pressure plate does not get distorted.
I assume you know about keeping the plate aligned with the pilot bushing using an alignment tool. Remember to remove the alignment tool after. Don't laugh, it's been forgotten before.
 
I've never had an issue with a flywheel hitting the block - though I've seen folks use the wrong length flywheel bolts and cause issues that way.
 
As mentioned above you may have the wrong flywheel.
This picture was posted by Ross F1 in another thread.
 

Attachments

  • flywheels-1.jpg
    flywheels-1.jpg
    35.5 KB · Views: 507
I think if he had the wrong flywheel, it would interfere with the block before the PP was attached. I'd say it's the PP bolts that are wrong. Also as I recall, 8BA flywheels have the PP bolt holes going all the way thru the flywheel, while 59 flywheels have blind holes.
 
Just had a similar incident with a 69a block.
Fitted up the flywheel and found engine which was free to turn prior to fitting flywheel would not turn. Flywheel was interfering with set screwa securing oil pump drive cover.
Removed washers from screws still catching. Ended up placing a 60thou shim behind flywheel and all was clear and free turning.
Phil NZ
 
Hi All,

Thankyou for all the responces, i had 2 flywheels one was on the engine and one was not. The 8BA i have was in a hot rod and is now going into my truck ,The one that was on the engine was not as heavy duty as the one on the shelf. I sent the one on the shelf to be machined ( at the time not realising there was to much difference ) and a step was machined also for the clutch plate.

As in the 2 pictures one has a lip on the outside of the flywheel, this is the section that was binding on the block, i ended up getting onto the guy that machined for me ( all he does is build flathead engines) and he said silimilar.

He said he finds the same issue with some engine/flywheel setups that he recieves for rebuilding, he said the easiest and quickest way is to just notch where it is binding at the spot on the outer lip a small amount (few mm) as he has had to do this on many engines over the years.

I notched a few mm just where the lip was binding and this solved the problem.

Thank you for all the assistance, if it's appreciated.

Cheers

Corey

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
 
Hi All,

So i modified the bottom flywheel coverplate so as it would not hit the lip either, i then extended the starter motor mount by 9mm so as to sit the starter further out to allow the gear to fully engage with the flywheel.

Have not tested as yet but will in the next few days.

Cheers

Corey
cb8c5baa08d2bdc91645af4b8424e4f3.jpg
6952b91d10f0c5801bb96b2dd2fa7ead.jpg
998fbe401bd7b914a52517a9a86aaf0f.jpg
e757b908ae99850db9ccd0148b7519cf.jpg
374433e34907f92c29e39af65619ebf6.jpg
f9ae3abd82c393343bb41881db8b9668.jpg


Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
 
Yes mate fits nicely. I dummy fitted but have not fully fitted with starter etc as yet for testing. Measurements indicate it should work ok. Once I fit up I will update again.

Cheers

Corey

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk
 
Geez, you really took that metric comment to heart. hahaha. Starter bendex is at least 1.5" long or 38.1mm. Maybe you could have shimmed the starter out a 1mm.

Looks good hope it works for you! Did you have to shim the flywheel then?
 
Last edited:
Haha Tinker, i dont think 1mm would of been enough when i measured the throw and where the flywheel now sits i needed around 7mm ( i have no idea what that is in imperial! Haha no really it's 9/32! Lol).

And no i didnt shim the flywheel.

So i am hoping it works out ok.

Cheers

Corey

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top