Clutch Chatter '47

[Fred A]

My clutch chattered before taking the engine out for a trans repair. Found very bad throwout bearing and wallowed out pilot bearing, replaced them and the three engine mounts. The clutch disc looked near new and didn't look oily. Now with a few hundred miles on the repairs, the chatter seems to be getting worse. When cold the clutch seems to start smoothly, but as it warms up, gets worse. Pulling out on a hill can scare the passenger with chatter and some bucking. Really takes the fun out of driving. Can the '47 be fitted with pre '42 chatter rods? Can't figure the cause but trying to avoid pulling the engine again. Any thoughts? Thanks: Fred A

PS: Did smoke the clutch trying to see if anthing changed but only got stink.

 

[Lawson Cox]

Are you certain all of the fingers are touching at the same time. If not will chatter. That is the cause of chatter. All other things are symptoms, not the cause of chatter.

 

[Fred A]

So, How'd It Get That Way?

My ailing clutch looks like a rebuilt unit, then how does an adjustment error happen. In my residential neighborhood growing up we had an old guy that did clutches in a shack behind his house. The three foot circular metal table had all the attachments to manipulate and adjust. Most of the rodders in Burbank went to him for increased spring pressure and a resurface. Had there been a problem, the whole town would have known. What kind of place these days would not do as well as ol' Jim Ridge? Orrrr. is it just wear or abuse that makes it go out of tune? Thanks for the response: Fred A

 

[flathead4rd]

Did you have the flywheel resurfaced when you did all the other repairs. That could be your problem. As it heats up, the run out could be increasing and causing chatter just like worn disc brake rotor does.

 

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Get a rebuilt clutch and pressure plate from Fort Wayne Clutch Co. They make them right there and they are right on. I think all others are made in Cukamunga or some place like that. I've had my belly full of made out of the country clutch setups. Walt

 

[40 Deluxe]

At this point you can't assume anythng, but rather check everything. Pick up the disc and shake it. Does it rattle? What is rattling? Is the hub loose in the disc? The disc has the cushioning springs, right? Are they loose/broken/collapsed? Look at the edge of the disc. Is the "marcel" OK? That refers to the curve or bow in the disc edge that holds the two facings slightly apart to smooth and cushion the engagement as the disc is squeezed by the pressure plate. Are the splines on the input shaft and disc OK? Verify that the flywheel runs true with a dial indicator. I once found a resurfaced flywheel that was cut at a slight angle and the clutch chattered! Find a real clutch builder to check finger height. I don't think too many automotive rebuilding companies know what quality control is anymore. And companies that sell new stuff have usually contracted out to the low bidder, and they don't seem to place a high priority on quality, either!

 

[FlatheadTed]

Often new clutches go out of adjustment due to the mechanism wearing in inside ,the fingers need resetting, you can do this your self with the tranz out ,you need a vernier .Could be fly wheel but low on the list ,

 

[Kube]

Re: So, How'd It Get That Way?

My ailing clutch looks like a rebuilt unit, then how does an adjustment error happen. In my residential neighborhood growing up we had an old guy that did clutches in a shack behind his house. The three foot circular metal table had all the attachments to manipulate and adjust. Most of the rodders in Burbank went to him for increased spring pressure and a resurface. Had there been a problem, the whole town would have known. What kind of place these days would not do as well as ol' Jim Ridge? Orrrr. is it just wear or abuse that makes it go out of tune? Thanks for the response: Fred A

A few years ago I got two clutch plates in a row from NAPA that were out of adjustment (the three fingers).
I now buy only from Surge Clutch in Illinois. Good folks, fair prices and brand new USA made. Fort Wayne Clutch is also very good but a bit more pricey.

 

[47Merc]

You can make a set of anti chatter rods for the 46 - 48's out of 5/16 threaded rods. They mount from the holes in the bellhousing like the earlier models but run forward under the exhaust manifolds into the front cross member. you will have to drill a couple of holes in the cross member for them, fit the nuts and lock nuts each end, snug them up and you'll be good to go.

David

 

[Fred A]

So Here's The Plan..

Suffer through the clutch for most of the summer. Get a clutch from a good source and get all other issues, like the damaged cylinder head and the matter of better manifolds and any other dress up that would be made better or easier during a period of no engine. I just can't tear this thing down again so soon and that's what it really needs. It is keeping me from my favored make fast Model A. Thanks All: Fred A

 

[gmc1941]

I think since you had this problem before you change the clutch. I would be a good idea to check the trans bearings. Something is causing the wobble.

 

[19Fordy]

Here's an aftermarket anti-chatter gizmo that was made for the later 40's Fords. One end hooks to the "X" member. The other bolts to the bellhousing.
You can make one without too much trouble. I have one on my 40 Ford. But first solve the problem as suggested in other posts.

 

[CWPASADENA]

Get a rebuilt clutch and pressure plate from Fort Wayne Clutch Co. They make them right there and they are right on. I think all others are made in Cukamunga or some place like that. I've had my belly full of made out of the country clutch setups. Walt

I agree.

I have been using Ft Wayne Clutchs for many years. They really know what they are doing and I think they are fairly priced.

I definately WOULD NOT use Foreign stuff.

Chris