Clutch adjustment problem

California Charlie said:
MORE UPDATE:

Looking at the actuating lever coming out freom the bell housing from above, it is installed in a downward position. Should it be rotated and turned updward? Is this what my whole problem issue is all about?
Click to expand...

This video will show you EXACTLY what it should all look like. Forward to the 39 minute mark and go from there- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsyCPauO4P0

There is also a detailed description and demonstration of what the "freeplay" should look like and will visually show you how much it should have.
 
Paul's video is good but it did not show how the fork engages with the throwout bearing housing. Charlie, Your lever, as you say, is almost straight down and should be horizontal. I need to a photo of how the fork is situated where it engages the housing. I also need a detailed description of how you adjusted the fingers. There is something wrong between the lever and the pressure plate. You should not need a jack to push the lever up to engage the pin. Paul's video clearly shows how it goes together with just using his fingers.
 
Once again thanking everyone for their input and helpful pictures to the problem issue that I have with my clutch adjusting mechanism.

I may have finally, and i do mean finally found, what the issue is.

Looking at 1955cj5 photo that he sent.

I do think my problem is with the shaft that is coming out from the bell housing where the adjustment lever attaches to.

I believe the problem issue I'm having is with the shaft hole positioning. 1955cj5 photo shows the actuating lever being pinned at a 12 o'clock position.

The shaft coming out from my Bell Housing has its pin hole at a 2 o'clock position.

Attaching, pinning, the clutch actuating lever at the 2 0'clock positioning point on the shaft lowers the actuating lever down to where the trunnion can't reach.

I believe the shaft hole positioning is the problem.

At this point in time I believe I had two options without pulling the Bell Housing apart and replacing that shaft. I really don't want to do that.

I can try to fill the current shaft pin hole and then try to drill a straight hole at the 12 o'clock positioning, or work with what I have and extend the trunnion and see how that goes. My preferance is to extend the trunnion.

Whatcha think guys? I don't remember who I bought the new Bell Housing Shafts from.
 
What year is your car? The shaft 1955cj5 shows in his picture is for an early model, that is keyed. The later ones don't have the key. It appears by your pictures you have the later one with no key?? They are not interchangeable.
 
I think though the lever is keyed, the shaft that I used is not, it is a new replacement.

There were different shafts, one for the AA and one for the A, they were not interchangeable.
But that alone may not explain the problem you have.

If the internals are correct, i.e. the fork and throw-out carrier, you could drill the lever to reposition it.
 

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Thanks 1955cj5 for the photo. Where did you purchase your clutch release lever?

It appears the shaft that comes out of the Bell Housing, and what the clutch release lever attaches to, is drilled incorrectly.

Front what photo's I've seen the shaft hole the pin inserts to hold the clutch release level is at a 12 o'clock shaft position. The shaft coming out of my Bell Housing is at a 2 o'clock position which positions the clutch release lever so low the trunnion can't reach.

At this point in time my options are:

1. Comletely disassemble the Bell Housing and replace the clutch release lever shaft.
2. Plug the shaft hole that is currenlty in a 2 o'clock position and try to drill a new straight 12 o'clock hole without removing the Bell Housing etc.
3. Extend the trunnion and see how that works.

I'm currently leaning towards trying #3.

I don't recall the vendor I used to purchase the Bell Housing shafts.
 
If I were you I would not bother trying to plug the hole in the shaft, nor would I try to drill a new hole in the shaft.

I would position the clutch release lever in the correct position and drill the release lever to align with the existing hole in the shaft. You could remove the release lever retaining pin and then attach the trunnion to align the lever before drilling.

You need to make sure that there is enough free play in the linkage, so that your throw-out bearing is not in contact with the PP fingers when the clutch pedal is fully released.

If the bearing turns with the PP all the time, it will not last very long.

A better picture of the throw-out bearing, carrier and fork will help determine what is at fault here....
 
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I think this hinges around how the pressure plate fingers were adjusted . I bolt up the pressure plate to a good flywheel ( face not machined) with a new good quality disc installed then adjust finger depth if needed . Most times no adjustment is needed the factory staked adjusters are just fine . This is with good used pressure plates with acceptable even finger wear . I have a whole stack of them picked up from many swap meets worth looking out for (trust me ) I did try a new repro but it was junk and would not adjust so it went back to the vendor .

John in partly cloudt warm Suffolk County England .
 
Very unlikely that the shaft was drilled incorrectly. Most likely something internal is not right. Re drilling the shaft or lever is a bandaid and does not address the root cause.
 
kurt v said:
was the orig shaft replaced or is it the orig shaft ?
Click to expand...

We really need more information, and pictures.

Drilling is certainly a band-aid and is really unlikely to work.

Something is wrong inside, either the PP fingers are incorrectly set, or the fork is in backwards, or incorrect parts.

The original poster needs to provide more information.

Until then, it's a guessing game.
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Did you have to drill out the hole in the arm? If memory serves me, the keyed arm and shaft used a smaller pin.
Click to expand...

Well, it was 10 years ago!

But, I see I did order the pins, shaft, fork and release arm at the same time from Bert's. Pins were the only ones available from Bert's at the time.

I might have drilled the arm....that is sort of a non-event when working with reproduction parts and making them fit....

My ccpu had an AA 4-speed when we bought it, so I needed to replace nearly everything to convert it back to a 3-speed.
 
You may have sheared the pin or partially sheared the pin on the clutch throw out bearing fork on my truck that pin sheared and I slowly lost all pedal travel and as I readjusted ITIT continued to lose all pedal travel until it completely sheared unfortunately if this is the case you will need to remove the bell housing to fix it.
 
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