Clutch adjustment problem resolved

California Charlie

Senior Member
To begin with, please excuse me because for some reason I've been unable to follow the help that's been given to be in chronological order. My replies appear to get scattered around. No doubt it's my lack of knowledge as to how to use the system properly.

Anyway, it appears my clutch adjustment problem has to do with Vendor New Parts.

1. The Clutch Release Shaft coming out from my Bell Housing was drilled at a 2 o'clock position and not at a 12 o'clock position as it should be.

How do I know that? I looked at several pictures showing the top of the inserted pin holding the Clutch Release Lever hammered into the shaft at the top 12 o'clock position.

When the Clutch Release Lever is installed at the 2 o'clock position, the trunion will not reach because the Release Lever is too low.

2. The reproduction Clutch Release Lever is longer than the original. For the most part this may not be a problem for most; however, if you have installed a hydraulic brake system (with the fabricated battery box that holds the Brake Master Cylinder to it), the longer Clutch Release Lever hits the box.

If anyone had a good used older Clutch Release Lever that measures approximately 3 5/8" end to end, I would like to buy that from them. Please let me know if you have that knocking around in one of your good used parts boxes.

I'm attaching a couple of photos. With all your help to get me to look into different things, these are my findings. Thanks to everyone.
 

Attachments

  • CLUTCH 1.jpg
    CLUTCH 1.jpg
    60.1 KB · Views: 73
  • CLUTCH 2.jpg
    CLUTCH 2.jpg
    128.9 KB · Views: 78
The important thing is that the holes for the release lever and the clutch release fork are aligned.

There are two holes in this shaft, each with a drill bit installed to show alignment.
 

Attachments

  • P1010075.jpg
    P1010075.jpg
    59.6 KB · Views: 75
  • P1010074.jpg
    P1010074.jpg
    65.6 KB · Views: 70
Last edited:
I installed the Snyder arm last week. 30 minute job. No issues other than having to clean up a machining burr of the shaft bore.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4305.jpg
    IMG_4305.jpg
    57.8 KB · Views: 51
Last edited:
It is also possible somebody installed the clutch release fork backwards. This can be done and will still allow the fork to engage and disengage the throw out bearing hub. However, it will change the trajectory of the outside release lever. This may be the difference between the incorrect 12:00 and 2:00 position of the hole for the release lever pin that you are noticing and will need a much longer threaded trunnion rod for proper clutch pedal adjustment. Such a rod is not available and would need to be fabricated.

I have a customer with a Model A pickup that has such a situation and has been driving the vehicle this way for 20+ years with no real mechanical problem.
 
Charlie, Check the alignment of the drilled holes as in Post #2. You can look in the bell housing without having to take the bell housing off again. Also check that the fork is not installed backwards as in Post #6. I still think there is some else amiss besides the holes not drilled correctly.



  1. Holes at fork and hole at outside are aligned? Yes / No
  2. Fork is forward and not backwards? Yes / No
  3. Pressure plate type and manufacturer?
  4. Process used to adjust pressure plate fingers?
  5. What measurement were fingers set at?
 
Last edited:
I believe I bought the clutch fork from Brattons several years ago. I do remember where I bought it because I contacted their technicial support person to ask its positioning in the Bell Housing. If I recall correctly, it may have looked a little different in its style than the original clutch fork that was removed.
 
As far as I can tell the fork appears to be forward.

It's been such a long time since this system was gone through that I don't recall which vendor I used to purchase the pressure plate; however I do remember important instructions regarding the pressur plate finger adjustment being included with the pressure plate, and I verfiied that information with another source. i may have used a caliper to do the pressure plate finger adjustment. I don't recall what measurement was used for the finger adjustment, but I verified what it should be with do with two sources.
 
Thanks, Charlie, It is too bad that you live on the other coast or I would go to your house to help you.

Did you get a chance to determine whether the pin hole for the clutch fork is lined up with the pin hole for the lever?
 
If my weak memory is working correctly, the clutch release shaft for the car and truck are different in that the hole for the arm is drilled in a slightly different rotation. Could you have gotten a shaft for the AA instead of one for the A? I found this out several years ago when trying to align the clutch linkage on a truck housing while using the car shaft. The linkage just didn't fit right.

John
 
As it stands. I believe I will leave things the way they are and only do the following:

-Install the "Original Style" Clutch Release Lever when it arrives from Snyders next week.That should eliminate the issue I have with the release lever striking the custom battery box which allows for the attachment and use of a Hydraulic Brake Master Cylinder.

-Lengthening the trunnion. I already have a plan in place for doing that.

-I'm going to see how this works.

Thanks for all your help and support.
 
There is a post on YouTube where the adjustment is "locked" by screwing the pin out as far as it would go . This raises the fingers as far as they could go . This could cause your problem or add to it . Just a thought .

John in sunny Suffolk County England .
 
If my weak memory is working correctly, the clutch release shaft for the car and truck are different in that the hole for the arm is drilled in a slightly different rotation. Could you have gotten a shaft for the AA instead of one for the A? I found this out several years ago when trying to align the clutch linkage on a truck housing while using the car shaft. The linkage just didn't fit right.

John

Please see post #2.
 
If my weak memory is working correctly, the clutch release shaft for the car and truck are different in that the hole for the arm is drilled in a slightly different rotation. Could you have gotten a shaft for the AA instead of one for the A? I found this out several years ago when trying to align the clutch linkage on a truck housing while using the car shaft. The linkage just didn't fit right.

John

Here is the Service Bulletin reference....Page 509...
 

Attachments

  • P1010076.jpg
    P1010076.jpg
    62.1 KB · Views: 47
Back
Top