clutch adjustment dilemma-update

richard rink

richard rink

Member
Thanks to everyone for suggestions and observations. I was able to resolve the difficulty of adjusting the clevis for deep set clutch release fingers (posted Saturday, June 25th) as follows:

1) the length of the clutch pedal adjusting rod was increased by adding a short threaded piece to the end, using a female connector.

2) I found that the ideal location for the clevis along the pedal adjusting rod was now obscured by the female connector. So, I shortened the "shank" of the clevis, using a hacksaw. Proper adjustment of the modified clevis for the proper amount of pedal free play brought it to just short of the female connector.

3) along the way, I became familiar with the necessity of loosening the clutch bracket and ball assemble, making sure to keep the ball bushing in position, etc. in order to obtain enough clearance to rotate the clevis on the threaded adjusting rod. Lots of old, caked grease made it an interesting experience. By the way, I could not find any details of doing this in the "green book." Maybe I missed a paragraph about it?

To conclude, the clutch is working very well. And the 8CM with the L-100 cam, (the "smiley cam" as Ol' Ron says), makes for happy motoring.

Richard
 
The green book is not a restoration or how to do it book. It is a parts book with manifold errors that will lead a restorer astray.
 
Lawson, the green book that I have is titled "1939-48, Ford and Mercury Shop Manual." Reprinted with the permission of the Ford Motor Co. The contents include detailed descriptions of a vast number of mechanical aspects of the Ford/Mercury vehicles. Perhaps there is another "green book?"

Richard
 
There is no perfect and complete shop manual...the one you have is a reprint of the Canadian 1946 manual, with supplementary specifications for other years from I think old Motor's manuals.
If you want more and sometimes better pictures to help on this sort of stuff, look for:
1942 Army Ford staff car manual, reprinted by Portrayal Press
1946 F-L-M maintenance manual, reprinted and available from all the Ford places labeled as 1946-48. This last is lower level than shop manual but has goodies like absolutely great photographs of the pedals and linkage you just been wrenching on that I find immensely helpful. On mechanical procedures these later books do not differ much from 1940.
 
im late getting in on thid post, but extra thick repo clutches will cause that problem when you tighten the pressure plate on the clutch, a thick clutch causes the release fingers to be drawn in toward the flywheel , thus causing more throwout movement to reach the release levers
 
ford1, you and Walt Dupont came to the same conclusion. The clutch is a repo; I had no clue that its thickness could pose a problem. Thanks for your thoughts.

Richard
 
Richard, another problem those thick clutches cause is they wont fully release even with the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor
 
Richard, I've run into this problem more than once. A few yr's ago I really soured up on these clutch and pressure plates made in China ect. From then on I get all my clutch and plates from Fort Whyne Clutch Co. I think there the only one in USA that makes them. If you get a disc with the wrong wave plate between the 2 disc it won't work right. Call FWC co. and talk to Kerry. He knows his business. Walt
 
The '32-48 trans book from Ford has specs and adjustments on all early discs and pressure plates, well worth having in a world of dubious repro stuff. Maybe the later merc B&B plates are covered in the Merc shop manual.
Checking finger height is an excellent idea, not just because of thickness issues but because some current pressure plates come with fingers set apparently at random, making smooth operation unlikely without readjustment.
Finding a good rebuilder sounds like a really good idea, much preferable to new imports.
 
hey walt, another worthless piece of triveal info that plate between the cluch disks is called a marcel, and i kave no idea why
 
I'm happy to report that the clutch action is very good, with a smooth engagement/release of the plate. It was only the clutch plate that was rebuilt. The pressure plate is an original. Thanks again for all the comments.

Richard
 
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