Closed Driveline U-Joint Disassembly

itslow

itslow

Well-known member
In the process of rebuilding a '39 transmission and have reached the point of needing to disassemble the u-joint so that it can be re-bushed. What's the correct method of removing the clips that retain the bushings in the yokes? How about a "backyard" method? Any "special" tools required that might not be in most tool chests?

Additionally, how "loose" can the cross be in the bushings before the bushings need to be replaced? Is an RCH's worth of clearance too much?
 

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No special tools that I know of. I just put a cross and bushings in mine. If you get under the clip with a sharp pick, then a small screwdriver, they come right out. My bushings were worn, but the cross was pretty good. I thought my u joint was good until I cleaned it up, then I could see the movement between the bushing and the cross, not much, but I replaced them anyway.
 
I used a thin cut off wheel in a Dremel tool and made a shallow cut right alongside the clip, trying not to hit the clip. I didn't try hard enough, but the clips should still be good. It makes it a lot easier to get something under the clip.
 
My bushings were really worn but the wear was also present in the housings making the use of a kit useless since there would still be excess clearance in the rebuilt joint. I just purchased a new complete joint from Mac's and it fit like a glove! Perfect replacement IMO.
 
We sell the repair kits which include the new cross, new bushings, and new clips. As stated above, if the two halves of the u-joint are worn in the yoke bores, a new kit only helps a bit. The darn kit sells for $45 while a completely NEW u-joint goes for $95. The new ones are very nice. I don't mess with trying to repair a used joint anymore since the new one is relatively close in price.
 
Mac VP said:
We sell the repair kits which include the new cross, new bushings, and new clips. As stated above, if the two halves of the u-joint are worn in the yoke bores, a new kit only helps a bit. The darn kit sells for $45 while a completely NEW u-joint goes for $95. The new ones are very nice. I don't mess with trying to repair a used joint anymore since the new one is relatively close in price.
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That is the same analysis I made Mac. Go ahead and replace the whole shebang and not have any excess clearances in the assembly. Well worth the additional expense in my opinion.
 
I have a few of these & never rebuilt one. So the ring actually needs to be wide not compressed in order for the bushing to come out?
 
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