Clearance problems on front axle.

Chris Haynes

Chris Haynes

Well-known member
My front axle is a combination of ingredients. 33 to 36 axle. 37 to 41 spindles. With model a wishbone. While assembling it I quickly discover if the tie rod is tight against the bottom of the wishbones. Looking for a solution.
 
Or better yet, buy some offset tie rod ends like were originally used on Willys and have been reproduced with an offset to lower the tie rod to clear the bottom of the wishbone. There are some on ebay now.
 
Don't know if they are the same as the Willys mentioned above; but Speedway has dropped arms. Picture should give you an idea of their configuration as compared to a straight rod end.
 

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I bent the Ford steering arms up to go over the wishbones.

John
 

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Another vote for heat and bend the spindle arms. I did the same thing on my model A coupe with 32 spindles and a 32 to 36 axle and model a wishbone. Get it cherry red and use a big pipe wrench and move it where you want it. Let it cool down slow on its own.
 
They are not factory heat treated, they are drop forged. Arms, axles, etc are all heated to reform as in dropped axles.
 
Heating forged parts does not cause any issues, that is how axles are dropped. And the spindle arms have to be heated and dropped as well the clear the axles. The metal is heated to the point it is plastic so that it is easy to reform.
 
You are taking a chance by heating this stuff. Consult a metallurgist to be safe. Bad axle parts and spindles are killers. That's why they sell dropped forged replacement spindles for these cars.
 
Phil, this is bad info. Dropped original axles are superior to the repro stuff. I have a lot of training in metallurgy (as I am sure other do on this site), what you are posting is not correct information. I would trust original forged parts all day long over any of the repros.
 
Apart from the 'what I did' comments above, are any of gentlemen above qualified metallurgists or know exactly all of the metallurgical characteristics of the parts that they 'know' can be safely heated and bent? Likely not, and if so, least we forget that a failure of the steering system on one of these vintage cars, which have none of the protection of vehicle occupants of modern cars, could be life threatening. Why take a chance when the parts are available to do the job without altering the spindles?
 
Axles AND spindles have been done this way since the 40's...........................a lot of them still rolling along. JMO
Paul in CT
 
DavidG said:
Apart from the 'what I did' comments above, are any of gentlemen above qualified metallurgists or know exactly all of the metallurgical characteristics of the parts that they 'know' can be safely heated and bent? Likely not, and if so, least we forget that a failure of the steering system on one of these vintage cars, which have none of the protection of vehicle occupants of modern cars, could be life threatening. Why take a chance when the parts are available to do the job without altering the spindles?
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David, sorry but have to disagree with you on this one, and yes I am a qualified engineer with both training and experience in forgings. In my opinion the original parts are far superior to the modern reproductions parts. There was a time when a lot of the new suspension parts were cast! I think at least some of them are now forged, but even at that you can about be assured they are off-shore parts. Lot of info on the HAMB on the topic of dropped axles if anyone is interested.
 
I think its superbell that sold the ductile iron dropped axles..

Best way is old ford parts. Heat them up shape it to what you want slowly and let them cool naturally or cover it in sand and let it cool off. Dont dunk it in water.

Then if your in doubt have it magnafluxed.
 
This one suprises me, I would never have guessed in a hundred years that it was a controversial topic! Reforming forged parts has to be one of the oldest Hot Rod processes around and used by the greatest and most knowledgable builders for over 80 years.
 
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