Cleaning Oil Pan

Wuudie

Wuudie

Senior Member
How do I remove the upper tray in the oil pan to clean out underside of the tray and the bottom of Pan. I don't want to Gorilla it and end up bending/folding the tray. Basically, I would like to know if anyone has an sure/easy way to do this without harming the pan or the tray.

It looks like the tray is pressed in to the ridges on the side of the oil pan.

Again I'd appreciate any advise anyone can provide so I don't gorilla the tray in the oil pan.
 
Take the pan and throw it face down on some cardboard.
The baffle should pop right out.

It may take a few tries and be sure to make sure it lands flush and not on a corner.
 
You can use, Two large screw drivers or Do as some of use here do! Dump all oil out . Go out in the yard and lift it over your head and slam it
on the grass . Some times it needs it twice ! Try to slam it flat! Gasket side down
 
Hows that for two fast answers? Looks like mister tube and i were typing at the same time!! I'am very slow typing!
 
Wuudie said:
How do I remove the upper tray in the oil pan to clean out underside of the tray and the bottom of Pan. I don't want to Gorilla it and end up bending/folding the tray. Basically, I would like to know if anyone has an sure/easy way to do this without harming the pan or the tray.

It looks like the tray is pressed in to the ridges on the side of the oil pan.

Again I'd appreciate any advise anyone can provide so I don't gorilla the tray in the oil pan.
Click to expand...
Nothing is eady.
 
I just tried a different method (for me), I was cleaning tghe lift bay, the lift was up some so I could sweep under it --up just about the heigth of the pan, there was a pipe on the floor about 2" dia, and I kicked the pan under the lift, put the pipe on the oil pump hole and popped the tray out ---much better than the first time i did it years ago with screwdrivers and much prying ---worked so good I went and got another pan and popped it apart too---no splash, no mess on the floor, no damage to gasket flanges.
 
Kurt in NJ said:
I just tried a different method (for me), I was cleaning tghe lift bay, the lift was up some so I could sweep under it --up just about the heigth of the pan, there was a pipe on the floor about 2" dia, and I kicked the pan under the lift, put the pipe on the oil pump hole and popped the tray out ---much better than the first time i did it years ago with screwdrivers and much prying ---worked so good I went and got another pan and popped it apart too---no splash, no mess on the floor, no damage to gasket flanges.
Click to expand...

Kurt, Your removal method is much like the quick tip I have on my website for dipper tray removal.
Fordbarn Guys...You have to try the method Kurt explains or check out the Link I have on my website for tray removal. It is so easy you will wonder why Ford didn't have it in the Service Letters!
Look for the following link on the Services page of my website:
I have attached the tip below. Click the attachment.
Restorer's tip: Removing the oil pan sub pan...easy! (Pictures are included and help explain the process.)
Follow up to later post: Tom Endy's method is the same...just different tool.

Good Day!
Dave in MN
www.durableperformance.net
 

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Okay got the ways to remove- Thanks for the options.

I can see me doing the slamming method. I'd end up bending the oil pan as it hits the ground and the pan would bounce back up break my left shin, I'd lose my balance, and knock the engine off it's stand - the engine would fall, cracking the block- and the block would continue to roll over my right foot breaking that and the block would come to a stop as it crashes into my garage wall. I'd end up with a bent oil pan, cracked block, broken left leg, broken right foot and a hole in the garage. Each would have to wait 4 months for me to get my casts off. On the bright side- I'd end up expanding the garage :-)

How about putting it back in would be just pushing it level back in?
 
I have removed a number of them by putting my foot on the opposite side from the hole for the oil pump, put a 2x2 piece of wood in the hole, and with the flick of the wrist it pops out. A baseball bat works as well. To re-install, set the tray in place, put your foot on top and pop it back into place.

Tom Endy
 
i like using two or three stout putty knives slid between tray and pan,then dropping in on a piece of plywood.after cleaning,it should pop back in easily.
 
And don't clean the pan and tray with any woven cloth.
Small bits of fuzz can come off, and eventually build up in some very small oil passage blocking oil flow.

This advice came to me from an old time tractor mechanic. Said he never allowed any rags near his engine rebuilds. Used only brown kraft paper (and alot of it at that). I went with paper towels, and so far, no oil flow blockage.
 
8b777cd3.jpg


This shows why long term storage with dirty oil and it's acids is so bad, and keeping clean oil in the engine is important. This is Marks oil pan from the car he got last summer. The first thing he had to do was weld up several rust holes.
 
MrTube said:
Isn't it amazing a metal pan filled with oil can still rust from the inside out?
Click to expand...

Short engine runs builds up condensation and forms acids that lay on the bottom of the sludge left by the old non detergent oil. The dipper tray will do the same (get acid holes) from leaving old oil with acids in it.

I've never seen this same problem on newer engines with detergent oil.

I always sandblast the inside and well as the outside of my oil pans, then paint them with DP90 and top coat with DCC9000. And I've done the same with the dipper tray.
 
Hi,
some years ago i wanted to change my oil. I had a hard time trying to get the drain plug out. I finally selected a 1/2" drive socket and it finally came out. But--- the piece if steel that is welded to the pan for the plug to screw in tore itself from the pan. Fun-fun. I cleaned the pan real good and had a welder weld the machined part back in the pan. He said ford did,nt really secure the part to the pan. He said it was more of a "tack job". The welder used a heli-arc welder and it came out real nice and strong. So as long as you have the pan out, you might consider this weld job. It worked well for me.

Big al
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Short engine runs builds up condensation and forms acids that lay on the bottom of the sludge left by the old non detergent oil. The dipper tray will do the same (get acid holes) from leaving old oil with acids in it.

I've never seen this same problem on newer engines with detergent oil.

I always sandblast the inside and well as the outside of my oil pans, then paint them with DP90 and top coat with DCC9000. And I've done the same with the dipper tray.
Click to expand...

Paint the oil pans, Inside too?
How clean does one have to get the oil pan and tray, down to bare metal? I have about an hour into cleaning 1/4 of one side- and just want to know if I take it down to bare metal.
 

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