Clam shell question

Great Lakes Greg

Great Lakes Greg

Well-known member
The finger on the upper shell half is right on the frame cross member. It is the first time I have actually seen this shell version on a car, so I don't know what proximity it should be from that frame section. Could this be indicative of frame sag? The rear engine mounts are stock and all the sheet metal gaps look good.
 

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That is one of the early clam shells. As is your frame. Put a piece of rubber innertube under it, if you wish. Other then that, it looks ok to me.
 
RG&JS page 4-4 & 4-15 Revised 2011

Beginning of production through December 1927 Both the upper and lower caps were forgings.

There were two types:

Type 1 - The upper cap had a safety lug with a raised rib going up the center of the lug. The lower cap had a "T" shaped raised area.

Type 2 - The upper cap had a welded on safety lug with no raised rib. The lower cap had a "D" shaped raised area where the safety lug was not
welded on.
 

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Great Lakes Greg said:
The finger on the upper shell half is right on the frame cross member. It is the first time I have actually seen this shell version on a car, so I don't know what proximity it should be from that frame section. Could this be indicative of frame sag? The rear engine mounts are stock and all the sheet metal gaps look good.
Click to expand...

No, It should not hit the cross member, Also Your picture shows MANY more things that you have a problem with..
 
If the safety finger is actually hitting the frame, I would check the front engine mount to see that it is in the correct position. Look through the crank hole and see that it is perfectly aligned with the crank nut.

But it looks like you have other issues that should be addressed. Is that a hole in your bell housing? If you change it (there are plenty available) be sure that you get the correct one for your car. Your car, if still original, would have a multi-disk clutch. Looking at the transmission inspection plate, your car may have been converted to the later style clutch.

Your emergency brake rod is not connected. And your stop light switch ls not connected.


So leads me to believe you were into other issues or doing some winter maintenance when your attention was drawn to the safety tab.
 
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It also appears you may be missing the left bolt for your accelerator linkage. Hard to be sure in photo you sent.
 
GRutter said:
It also appears you may be missing the left bolt for your accelerator linkage. Hard to be sure in photo you sent.
Click to expand...


Sharp observation, if the bolt is missing, is there is a shim missing that would maintain correct alignment?
 
My 28 has at least a 1/4" gap, and more likely about 3/8" from the hook to the frame crossmember.

If you install the correct length battery cables, that ground strap looks correct for a Studebaker from about 1950.
 
160B said:
RG&JS page 4-4 & 4-15 Revised 2011

Beginning of production through December 1927 Both the upper and lower caps were forgings.

There were two types:

Type 1 - The upper cap had a safety lug with a raised rib going up the center of the lug. The lower cap had a "T" shaped raised area.

Type 2 - The upper cap had a welded on safety lug with no raised rib. The lower cap had a "D" shaped raised area where the safety lug was not
welded on.
Click to expand...

Don,

It is Type 3 that Greg has...only used from Mid-October 1928 thru Mid March 1929.

Also see the June 1929 Service Bulletins for more information.

Pluck
 
The Service Bulletins say there should be at least 1/16" gap between the frame
and the lug.

Bob
 
Okay, thanks fellers. The bolt isn't missing on the throttle bracket, it's just an illusion. I replaced the clutch so some things are not hooked up yet in the photo. There are a number of things that bother me in the picture, including the incorrect cables and routing, but it isn't my car, so it is what it is.
 
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