ckack ?

S

saladbar

Junior Member
HI will be checking for cracks in the head and block deck. got water in oil! any regular places to look ? And is there an easy way to remove bad oil from dipper tray ? thanks John
 
A few very minor details would help, like maybe:

1. When ..... was the car just bought as is?

2. "Noticed cracks "after adding cool water to a hot engine.

3. Or whatever?
 
Last edited:
Check head gasket first. The contaminated oil in the dipper tray will mix with the new oil, change it again soon and it'll be fine.
 
There are only a couple of places that water can get into the oil. One, and the most common is the head gasket. Another is cracks in the deck around the exhaust valves but, can sometimes be around the intakes. The worst place I find cracks is in the roof of the valve chamber, most often in the middle and running from the outside to the middle of the motor around the distributor drive but, can be anywhere in the roof. A can of brake cleaner and a mirror on a stick will help to find these areas. Before cleaning, look for rusty cracks with the mirror.
 
In Ford's Model T manuals it was continuously recommended in the 1920's to repair cast iron cracked blocks by:

1. Drilling overlapping holes in the crack of the cast iron block; and,

2. Providing overlapping tapped threads in the overlapping drilled holes in the cast iron; and,

3. Threading metal rods; then, screwing the overlapping metal rods into the block where each rod would overlaps the previous rod, similar to what is known today as stitching.

4. Main difference is, Ford recommended using copper rods and applying solder to the threaded rods after they were inserted; and,

5. Finally peening the exposed end surfaces of the copper rods flush with the cast iron surface.

6. There may be a good chance that nobody living today can attest to "actually experiencing" the success or failure of this very simple and early vintage Ford recommended procedure for repairing cracked blocks ..... one day .........
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
In Ford's Model T manuals it was continuously recommended in the 1920's to repair cast iron cracked blocks by:

1. Drilling overlapping holes in the crack of the cast iron block; and,

2. Providing overlapping tapped threads in the overlapping drilled holes in the cast iron; and,

3. Threading metal rods; then, screwing the overlapping metal rods into the block where each rod would overlaps the previous rod, similar to what is known today as stitching.

4. Main difference is, Ford recommended using copper rods and applying solder to the threaded rods after they were inserted; and,

5. Finally peening the exposed end surfaces of the copper rods flush with the cast iron surface.

6. There may be a good chance that nobody living today can attest to "actually experiencing" the success or failure of this very simple and early vintage Ford recommended procedure for repairing cracked blocks ..... one day .........
Click to expand...

In the old days in My Dads garage we fixed cracked blocks just that way. But we used tapered cast iron plugs. I still do it that way today.
 
Hi George,

Maybe one day somebody will try these simple threaded copper rods in a "cracked" Model A block, solder them in place per Ford's written instructions, and report back with amazing results.

Who knows ...... I remember reading both vintage Gunsmith Books and vintage Blacksmith Books years ago describing how two (2) blacksmiths used to place horse shoe nails in a forge, hammer them into flat bars, twist them together, and hammer them around a round steel rod, (using powdered Borax for flux), in order to make shotgun barrels ....... and we think life is rough today. LOL.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top