Chevy valve application
- Thread starter 40cpe
- Start date
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
In some cases, the 1.6 valve works well for cleaning up seats in the 52/3 blocks with out hardened seats. These valves ae aprox. '060" longer than the Ford valve. At this point you must consider the installed springth and seat pressure. Most street cams run on 50 to 60 lbs wuite well and eliminate cam ware. More seat pressure may be required for racing or the 400jr. It all requires alittle thought.
40cpe
Well-known member
Thanks Ron. Is the keeper grove also ~.060 longer than the Ford valve? I read the recommendation to add a .060 spacer to the spring with a Ford valve. After measuring spring pressure and height, will I likely need two .060 spacers per spring with the Chevy valve to get about 50# seat pressure?
This engine has valve seat inserts, so the valves being recessed into the block is not likely. Could there be an instance where some must be taken off the longer valve to get clearance with the adjustable lifters? I don't have a proper way to shorten the stem. If there is a reasonable possibility that the chevy valve is too long, I had best go with the Ford valve.
Thanks to all for sharing.
Gene
This engine has valve seat inserts, so the valves being recessed into the block is not likely. Could there be an instance where some must be taken off the longer valve to get clearance with the adjustable lifters? I don't have a proper way to shorten the stem. If there is a reasonable possibility that the chevy valve is too long, I had best go with the Ford valve.
Thanks to all for sharing.
Gene
GOSFAST
Well-known member
If you choose the Chev valves I would recommend using ones with the "stepped-down" necks, they will allow more air to pass!
With respect to the lock's locations, the later Flatheads ('51/'53) used .200" down grooves, the earlier ones ('48/'50) used .260" down.
Most Chev grooves are .250" down, there are some exceptions, but this is generally where they are located.
If you need to "shorten" the installed heights some you can use some .050" shorter locks. We use them all the time on many units!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Good luck fitting a pair of .060" shims below the springs, I don't believe you'll have enough room to keep the springs "located" on the registers with that many shims?? Here's a shot of the shorter locks!
With respect to the lock's locations, the later Flatheads ('51/'53) used .200" down grooves, the earlier ones ('48/'50) used .260" down.
Most Chev grooves are .250" down, there are some exceptions, but this is generally where they are located.
If you need to "shorten" the installed heights some you can use some .050" shorter locks. We use them all the time on many units!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Good luck fitting a pair of .060" shims below the springs, I don't believe you'll have enough room to keep the springs "located" on the registers with that many shims?? Here's a shot of the shorter locks!
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cadillacoffin
Senior Member
Good places to get them are H&H or patricks. Get the pro flow valves. I couldnt set lash so im having new seats put in and if need be shorten the stems.
http://patricksantiquecars.com/
http://flatheads-forever.com/
http://patricksantiquecars.com/
http://flatheads-forever.com/
40cpe
Well-known member
I learn something every time you post. The shorter locks will help. I thought the shim goes on the top of the spring so the guide can keep it centered.
Ronnie
Well-known member
The shim goes on top as you state but used in conjunction the compensated locks give you reduced spring height without additional shims.You will have to set it up to discover your spring heights.
R
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GOSFAST
Well-known member
Hi Gene, no problem, glad to help some!
I would give you this add'l tip for what it's worth. At this point in your build I would strongly recommend using bronze-lined guides, Viton stem seals and a slightly better grade of stainless valve with the necks stepped down (mentioned above).
I placed a photo below of the 2 types of valves. The one on the left is a Ferrea (single valve lock/stepped neck), without a doubt these are some of the highest quality valves in the arena! The one on the right is a "conventional" Manley replacement piece (double groove/straight neck), you can see the difference in the stems. The Ferrea's will flow an add'l 3 to 5 CFM (at max lift) above that specific Manley, due to the necks.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. The parts in the photo here would be one of the best all-around setups in the long term for any Flathead. On a side note, there will never be another "hung-valve" with these guides! These pieces go in every Flathead build we do! The valves pictured are 1.600", only for the photo. We do use mostly the 1.500" pieces if we aren't chasing HP!
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Ol' Ron
Well-known member
Right now you have to decide just what you expect from you engine, in it present application. What Gofast says is correct, but I feel an unnecessary expense for a mild stree engine. The first thing you have to do is MEASURE. Your regriubd cam has a smaller bade circke so I diubt you'll have trouble with the lifters and I've used as many a 2 .050" shim spacers to get the proper spring rate. as for those special valves and Bronze guides?? another unnecessary expense, unless your building an all out big cube engine. Knurelle guids with a tight fit on a stock chevy valve will last longer than you will. I saay this because I want more flatheads on the street running because you don't have the money to make it into a Swiss watch.
40cpe
Well-known member
If all goes well it will be a 276" with probably a 2G carb, and a 1007B cam from Pete, EAB heads clearanced at about .050".
I suppose the final choice will be decided when I find out how much it costs for the upgrades. I'm not necessarily on a budget, but common sense tells me not to spend a lot more money for limited benefit on a street engine. It is going in a club coupe, so racing is impractical in this car. I just want it to make me smile more than the 283 that came to me in it does. I appreciate all the comments and options, they help me know what is available and what the advantages/downsides are.
I once was an apprentice and thought I knew everything until time came to put my hand on the work. This experience reminds me of that time.
I suppose the final choice will be decided when I find out how much it costs for the upgrades. I'm not necessarily on a budget, but common sense tells me not to spend a lot more money for limited benefit on a street engine. It is going in a club coupe, so racing is impractical in this car. I just want it to make me smile more than the 283 that came to me in it does. I appreciate all the comments and options, they help me know what is available and what the advantages/downsides are.
I once was an apprentice and thought I knew everything until time came to put my hand on the work. This experience reminds me of that time.
If you buy the manley street flow they have the double groove and a necked down swirl polished stems that saves you a ton of shims. I also bought sbc light keepers and used a lathe to make them fit the flat head isky springs that saved a ton of shims. Add the keepers in the mix there is next to no shims. Now i just have to grind my valves so i can use non adjustable lifters
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Ronnie
Well-known member
The second groove is not designed to use a valve keeper in it is there to use the square o ring to control oil flow down the stem. The grooves are not the same.Some valves don't have the second groove at all.How do you machine keepers to fit springs don't you mean valve retainers?
R
R
Sorry yes retainers. I use machined keepers not stamped. Yes it is for an o-ring but you can use it for the keepers. I got the idea from joe abbins flathead ford book. If they are good enuff for his blower motors making over 300hp they will work for my lil garage motor
Ronnie
Well-known member
Have a close look at the groove it is not machined to make a keeper lock the way it is designed.The keepers will wear the stem.But you may do as you please.
R
