Chevy to Flathead distributor

K

Krylon32

Well-known member
Got my converted Chevrolet distributor from Charlie yesterday. A nice job and quick turnaround. Thanks Charlie.
 
At the risk of giving Charlie a big head (well deserved) I must agree with everything you say about the man. Plus, I'd add that he is a great guy on top of his craftmanship.
He's my "go to" guy :)
 
Now that you have this distributor what are you going to do with it? What modifications have been done to the engine in questuin? What carburetor will you nuse? Just what do you expect from this distributor?
Your in luck, Between this distributor and the right carb, you have a mechanical/ vacuum version of an engine management system. However there is one more thing you should buy and thets an AF meter. If you need any help, that's what we're here for.
Gramps
 
I know what I'm having done is probably not right and will be criticized but it's an 8BA block with a Scat 4 inch crank, 3 5/16th Ross pistons, stock rods, Isky 88 cam with Johnson lifters and Zephyr springs, 1.60 intake and stock size exhaust stainless valves with new 1 piece guides. Melling pump, balanced. I probably missed something. I haven't made up my mind on the heads and whatever intake I use will have 2 new 97's. Now tell what I'm doing wrong?
 
Just in case anyone is interested, Charlie can convert a SBC Mallory distributor just like he can a stock GM distributor. He did one for me. Used flathead Mallory's are a lot more expensive used than those for an SBC. I paid $75 for a complete Chevy Mallory flattop about 6 Months ago

They work fine and look cooool!

As far as your current question goes ,isn't an Isky 88 a pretty mild cam? I am sure others will chime in if it is.
 
As far as the cam is concerned I didn't want a real radical cam, I just wanting a fairly smooth running engine for a deuce roadster it'll be going into. The 88 is described as being a 3/4 race cam between the Max1 and 400 JR.????? I've ran this grind before and have been happy with it. I'm sure there are some who will poo poo it but that's life.
 
Krylon32 said:
I know what I'm having done is probably not right and will be criticized but it's an 8BA block with a Scat 4 inch crank, 3 5/16th Ross pistons, stock rods, Isky 88 cam with Johnson lifters and Zephyr springs, 1.60 intake and stock size exhaust stainless valves with new 1 piece guides. Melling pump, balanced. I probably missed something. I haven't made up my mind on the heads and whatever intake I use will have 2 new 97's. Now tell what I'm doing wrong?
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me!
 
I assume this is a "street engine". I question the use of Ross pistons and 1.6 valves. The Ross pistons require larger clearances and a 1.6 valve would only be beneficial at high RPM. Nothing wrong with these components, just a bad application. $$$$
Gramps
 
I checked with the builder and he is not doing the big valves but we are doing the Ross pistons which I have done in every FH engine I've had to date with no Ill effects.
 
How can I identify Ross pistons. I have two set of 3 5/16 pistons and need to sleeve one cylinder. All the other cylinders have very little wear.
 
The Ross piston is a light weight forged 3 ring piston used for racing. The piston requires excessive piston to wall clearance to prevent the piston from sezing when up to temperature.. It is possible to reduce this clearance to say .003" however if the engine over heats the piston could seize and destroy the block. It is also very expensive and although it comes with all the stroker assys provide, Not sure why? There are other piston manufactures out there. I just think the APPLICATION is more important.
 
Ron, I appreciate your concern about my choices, but the Ross pistons added only 150.00 to the price of the build and a little rattle at startup never bothered me in the past. I think I'll be OK.
 
Krylon32 said:
Ron, I appreciate your concern about my choices, but the Ross pistons added only 150.00 to the price of the build and a little rattle at startup never bothered me in the past. I think I'll be OK.
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Yup they only make noise for a little bit on cold start, then it goes away. Ross makes great pistons, maybe a little overkill for your build but like you said what's another $150 in the grand scheme of things.
 
The issue here is the longevity of the ring job, A cheap Egge piston & rings might last 20k miles more. Remember, this is a "street engine" I know there are better pistons available for this application, but just can't think of them right now, At 88 I chan't remember everything.
Gramps
 
Ol' Ron said:
The issue here is the longevity of the ring job, A cheap Egge piston & rings might last 20k miles more. Remember, this is a "street engine" I know there are better pistons available for this application, but just can't think of them right now, At 88 I chan't remember everything.
Gramps
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Ron,

I'm not following you on this. Why would you even use a piston if you are only going to get 20K out of it? That's 4 years of normal, fair weather usage. That seems like an extremely poor choice if that's all you get out them.
 
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Holeshot said:
Yup they only make noise for a little bit on cold start, then it goes away. Ross makes great pistons, maybe a little overkill for your build but like you said what's another $150 in the grand scheme of things.
Click to expand...

Not sure which ones Gary purchased, but one major advantage of using a piston like Ross is the ability to use thin, metric rings.
 
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