ford38v8
Well-known member
You can ask a stupid question if I can give a stupid answer. Haha! I don’t know what the actual temperature is. I am going by the original bubble gauge and it is completely red. Saturday, however, the bubble remained in the normal range (but near the high end) while driving. Then when the engine is shut down, the gauge goes all the way to the top. I need to get a temp gun and/or mechanical gauges.
From your posts and some of the answers, it appears that you have a low opinion of the "original bubble" temp gauge on your car. Please be advised that there is no more accurate a gauge than the one you have, providing that it is indeed original, has not been damaged, and is calibrated properly.
To start with, to check your gauge, is the fluid at or below the visible clear glass when cold? Is the glass no longer clear, but stained very darkly with the red fluid? Is the fluid color a dark blood red, or is it a funky oriental red? These are questions that can indicate a good gauge: Clear tube, dark blood red fluid that reacts to heat and cold. To calibrate your gauge, eyeball the glass tube with a strong light, and you will see a scribe line etched into the glass. This is the boiling point of water, 212º F. You will see that the tube is adjustable up or down in the dash gauge, and that scribe line is to line up with the corresponding 212º mark on the gauge. To go further with calibrations, the bulb, together with the connecting tube and glass gauge tube must be removed from the car, and the bulb submerged in boiling water to verify the scribe line on the glass. This operation may seem to be too much trouble for an engine that is to be removed, but consider, if not carefully removed without sacrificing the integrity of the bulb with its tube and glass, you will be destroying a very valuable part that can bring a couple hundred dollar$ or more at a swap meet.