Cheap Internal Upgrades?

A very inexpensive O2 sensor and display can be had from Cyberdyne gauges. This unit uses a bar graph to display the air/fuel ratio. You can tune to your engine with this but it's not as accurate as the wide band unit we use. The NGK unit goes up to 16:1, but our new unit goes up to 22:1 A/F. At present we're running in the high 15's low 16's.. You have to pay attention to your timing curve and engine temperature. Burning ALL the fues eliminates cylinder ware due to the lack of un burnt gas wiping down your cyliders and improve wring life. With the present gas It's hard to read plugs.
When building an engine you should take advantage of all the new ideas the Auto manufactures have come up with over the past 50 years and apply them to our trusty Flathead s.
Us idiots have perseverance and get better mileage..
 
jdl said:
Ron, just keep on doing what you are doing. I enjoy your posts and respect your knowledge and have learned a great deal from you.
please keep us updated.
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I second that! Excellent info especially to noobs like myself who are trying to learn as much as possible about these engines.
 
pauldeborr said:
Guess old Henry is an Idiot.

My minivan has a O2 sensor, not my flathead.

Have a good day guys.

Sorry for striking some chords LOL
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I was just making a point. An O2 sensor is an excellent tuning tool whether it be on your minivan or your Flathead. I'd rather have hard data that helps me tune my engine to get the maximum performance and economy out of it than just guessing at it. Telling someone they are an idiot for using a tried and true method for getting the maximum performance from their engine is complete ignorance. I don't presume to know you or your knowledge on the subject of Flathead tuning, I just think it was an ignorant thing to say when someone is simply asking for the expertise of the other users on this forum.
 
O.K. If I would like to install a A/F gauge and sensor. How do I do it and how would I use it? I am very interest in the advantages of the use and how to set it up. Wiring and etc.

Thanks
Bill S
 
I do allot of things that don't work, but I'm alittle stubborn so I have to try anyway. This can get out of hand. Back in the 90's I tried to get an early factory EFI system system to work and I made a whole bunch of them that didn't. I was in a junk yard yanking another out of an old ford, when my hand slipped and I cut my wrist quite seriously. I went to the clinic and the doc sewed it up, then he said at my age I should have a colonoscopy, Which I did and they found some bad Sh*t. All fixed now. But I never got any of those EFI's to work.
 
I'ld like to know about the 02 sensor and A/F gauge as an addition to my flathead. Will keep an eye on this thread... Thanks for the thought.
Karl
 
Ol' Ron said:
I do allot of things that don't work, but I'm alittle stubborn so I have to try anyway. This can get out of hand. Back in the 90's I tried to get an early factory EFI system system to work and I made a whole bunch of them that didn't. I was in a junk yard yanking another out of an old ford, when my hand slipped and I cut my wrist quite seriously. I went to the clinic and the doc sewed it up, then he said at my age I should have a colonoscopy, Which I did and they found some bad Sh*t. All fixed now. But I never got any of those EFI's to work.
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Well Ron, I'm pleased as punch your colon is still working.
 
As many have said, an AF gauge is an excellent tool. Essentially, a bung is welded into the exhaust head-pipe on one side (or both). An O2 sensor is then screwed into the bung and an AF meter is then hooked up for tuning. When not in use, a plug is screwed into the bung, and no-one is the wiser. Some people leave it installed as a means of constantly monitoring the engines' fuel mixtures.
 
Ron, The high 15s low 16s sounds a little lean. From what I have been reading the 14s seem better for cruising and WOT was in the 12s low 13s. Of cours all the info I found was for modern engines and may the flathead design requires something different.
Anyone here have a suggestion on which model to buy? Also how how can you tell if the problem is timing or misture when an adjustment needs to be made?
 
I have an NGK unit, however Richard bought another unit that JWL recomended and it works better has 22:1 hi range. Tuning for economy is our latest project and you have to keep doing things to improve or dis prove your last modification.That's why airplanes are better than the wrights. Richard made ou a monitor that displays A/f, RPN, Vacuum and timing as you drive the car, this is then recorded on video tape for later observation. These tests show the affects of all driving conditions on the ignition and fuel mixtures.. We then post our findings on the barn, so you don't have to do this. After all somebody gota do it or we'd still be walking.
 
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