flatmotor40
Well-known member
what is best chassis paint other than powdercoat cleaned to bare metal with wire brush and scraper Thanks
chassis paint
- Thread starter flatmotor40
- Start date
Seth Swoboda
Well-known member
Hard to beat Rustoleum satin black #7777 & spray it on. It last for ever!
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
Capn John
Well-known member
This stuff is bullet proof!!
http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/
NOT UV SENSITIVE
Mastercoat levels heavy pitting and stops rust at almost half the cost of the others. Guaranteed. Buy direct and save!
This entire car was primed with MasterSeries Permanent Rust Sealer/Surfacer/Primer. For the past 20 years, restoration shops have primed the entire car with MasterSeries Sealer to avoid comebacks. See our photo gallery.
Our AG111 gloss black.
What makes Mastercoat different than the others? Click here to find out!
The MasterSeries Coating Line was founded in 1988 because we wanted the most powerful rust sealers and topcoats in the world. Our permanent rust sealer has demonstrated for the last 30 years that nothing outperforms it in salt spray tests. Our salt spray tests run from 8000 to 14,000 hours. Our AG111 anti-graffiti subway coating withstood constant washing with solvents and alkali cleaner, when used on NYCTA subway cars. At the end of 10 years, the subway cars still maintained a high gloss and color retention. This is excellent for chassis and underbody protection on any vehicle.
When you speak to Mastercoat personnel, you’re speaking to people who use the product and do extensive restoration work on antique automobiles, so you’ll always get the right answer. Mastercoat is also ideal for tractors and farm equipment restoration.
http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/
NOT UV SENSITIVE
Mastercoat levels heavy pitting and stops rust at almost half the cost of the others. Guaranteed. Buy direct and save!
This entire car was primed with MasterSeries Permanent Rust Sealer/Surfacer/Primer. For the past 20 years, restoration shops have primed the entire car with MasterSeries Sealer to avoid comebacks. See our photo gallery.
Our AG111 gloss black.
What makes Mastercoat different than the others? Click here to find out!
The MasterSeries Coating Line was founded in 1988 because we wanted the most powerful rust sealers and topcoats in the world. Our permanent rust sealer has demonstrated for the last 30 years that nothing outperforms it in salt spray tests. Our salt spray tests run from 8000 to 14,000 hours. Our AG111 anti-graffiti subway coating withstood constant washing with solvents and alkali cleaner, when used on NYCTA subway cars. At the end of 10 years, the subway cars still maintained a high gloss and color retention. This is excellent for chassis and underbody protection on any vehicle.
When you speak to Mastercoat personnel, you’re speaking to people who use the product and do extensive restoration work on antique automobiles, so you’ll always get the right answer. Mastercoat is also ideal for tractors and farm equipment restoration.
Attachments
Last edited:
Robert Dip
Senior Member
I have a paint that I can not live without. It’s an industrial epoxy primer paint, 80% gloss.
I have been told that this paint is used on trains, yes, railroad application. It is called a primer, but it is more like a traditional paint. The mix ratio is 4/1/1. On the technical side, this paint ( almost ) does not run, you can apply it thick, and it cover edges. By covering edges, this means that the paint does not run away from the sharp edges, and covers very well. Don’t ask how this is done…..mystery to me, but, it works. This epoxy is also tough as anything can get, but at the same time, sandable and workable. Photo shows a backplate and may give you an idea of how it looks. On frames, I paint, sand, paint over again to fill in rust pits…hard to beat this. On another technical matter, this paint is not UV protected, as the UV agents make paint more susceptible to moisture transparency…..meaning, it is water tight. A trial test on a piece of steel, painted and exposed to the outdoor elements for years prove to be great….. don’t forget, trains live outside under the harsh conditions. Suspension parts and frames are not exposed to the sun, so no worry about UV. Now for the best part…..cost…..comes in 4 gallon container and 1 gallon hardener, add the 1 gallon of reducer, and the total is about $250.00. Now we know!! how we get ripped off when buying ‘automotive primers and paints’. The above gets you 5 gallons of paint. These paints are not available at your corner store, but every city has suppliers of such industrial products. This is a Canadian manufactured product that I buy and I would not know who can supply this in the US, but surely, there is an equivalent paint recipe somewhere. If you restore an entire car, 5 gallons would do it well…also use it on the inner body panels. Guertin CoatingsINC. EF72095 epoxy, black…maybe you can do a search on the net. To find an equivilent. …Robert
I have been told that this paint is used on trains, yes, railroad application. It is called a primer, but it is more like a traditional paint. The mix ratio is 4/1/1. On the technical side, this paint ( almost ) does not run, you can apply it thick, and it cover edges. By covering edges, this means that the paint does not run away from the sharp edges, and covers very well. Don’t ask how this is done…..mystery to me, but, it works. This epoxy is also tough as anything can get, but at the same time, sandable and workable. Photo shows a backplate and may give you an idea of how it looks. On frames, I paint, sand, paint over again to fill in rust pits…hard to beat this. On another technical matter, this paint is not UV protected, as the UV agents make paint more susceptible to moisture transparency…..meaning, it is water tight. A trial test on a piece of steel, painted and exposed to the outdoor elements for years prove to be great….. don’t forget, trains live outside under the harsh conditions. Suspension parts and frames are not exposed to the sun, so no worry about UV. Now for the best part…..cost…..comes in 4 gallon container and 1 gallon hardener, add the 1 gallon of reducer, and the total is about $250.00. Now we know!! how we get ripped off when buying ‘automotive primers and paints’. The above gets you 5 gallons of paint. These paints are not available at your corner store, but every city has suppliers of such industrial products. This is a Canadian manufactured product that I buy and I would not know who can supply this in the US, but surely, there is an equivalent paint recipe somewhere. If you restore an entire car, 5 gallons would do it well…also use it on the inner body panels. Guertin CoatingsINC. EF72095 epoxy, black…maybe you can do a search on the net. To find an equivilent. …Robert
Attachments
I have been using the eastwood 2K two part chasis ceramic paint... I WILL NOT USE IT on my next car.
I had to be put on just right or it will have a non-galss smooth finish. If I get a nice smooth finish (ie wet appearence0 it tends to run) Fine line between run and non run). I have used multiple cans (having to redo parts) and the ceramic settles into a glob in the can. It is almost impossble to restir the glob into the liquid portion.
Just too hard to use in my opinion...maybe someone who is a better painter than I can either confirm or provide another view.
I had to be put on just right or it will have a non-galss smooth finish. If I get a nice smooth finish (ie wet appearence0 it tends to run) Fine line between run and non run). I have used multiple cans (having to redo parts) and the ceramic settles into a glob in the can. It is almost impossble to restir the glob into the liquid portion.
Just too hard to use in my opinion...maybe someone who is a better painter than I can either confirm or provide another view.
TomT/Williamsburg
Well-known member
X-ORust, or something like that is another good one .... and it comes in different colors besides black .....
Capn John
Well-known member
I believe POR15 is UV sensitive!!
Henry/Kokomo
Well-known member
Relative to TomT's post, in years past, I used XO Rust to paint a couple of locomotives. I sold the locomotives after about 8 years, during which time they were outdoors almost continually. The paint had a few chips from physical "hits" but retained its shine and cleaned up well. Surface prep wasn't anywhere near as good as is found or restored cars and it still worked. Tough stuff and reasonably priced.
uncle buck
Well-known member
Zero - Rust is what I use. It is an easy to use paint that is very tough and has UV protection.
41Fordor
Senior Member
PPG DP90 black epoxy primer. A chassis doesn't really get a lot of UV exposure.
I have heard good things about Southern Polyurethanes self etching epoxy also:
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Product lines.htm
I have heard good things about Southern Polyurethanes self etching epoxy also:
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Product lines.htm
flatmotor40
Well-known member
Thanks for info I'll try to make my choice now
wga
Well-known member
I have painted several cars, chassis, etc. over the years and know how the correct
steps involved. So using POR 15 seemed like the way to go.
Ref GMC's comment about POR 15; I have had mixed results, from excellent to poor, and has peeled off. Used their recommended products, etc. I've since sent what I have to my local hazmat recycler. In my area, powder coating is reasonably priced.
steps involved. So using POR 15 seemed like the way to go.
Ref GMC's comment about POR 15; I have had mixed results, from excellent to poor, and has peeled off. Used their recommended products, etc. I've since sent what I have to my local hazmat recycler. In my area, powder coating is reasonably priced.
Gumpy
Well-known member
take a trial run with a sampler por 15...i used it on my floorboards in the 40 and accidentally spilled some gasoline on it....it bubbled....I also sprayed the undercarriage of another build with good results....but ive had my best results with glossy black rustoleum....amazed how good it holds up!!
flatmotor40
Well-known member
Thanks for info