Chasing the knock.

When the pin drops into the cam gear dimple, the rotor should be exactly as in this picture.
I'd loose the rubber fuel line, and run steel all the way.
The points should be adjusted to .020".
 

Attachments

  • Timing Rotor Position.jpg
    Timing Rotor Position.jpg
    66.7 KB · Views: 69
About the fuel line that is a carb I borrowed. My carb has the side sediment bowl and it will be going back on. It fits the current fuel line.

Sorry but being in a rush before work while doing my final timing checks I left the rotor button out. That's why she wouldn't fire. But she is back together and running. You be the judge of whether the new gears fixed the knock.

Before
https://youtu.be/3R3eLKlvVmU

After
https://youtu.be/C-MMJRXug8E

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
Garagekulture13 said:
About the fuel line that is a carb I borrowed. My carb has the side sediment bowl and it will be going back on. It fits the current fuel line.

Sorry but being in a rush before work while doing my final timing checks I left the rotor button out. That's why she wouldn't fire. But she is back together and running. You be the judge of whether the new gears fixed the knock.

Before
https://youtu.be/3R3eLKlvVmU

After
https://youtu.be/C-MMJRXug8E

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I think it sounds good!

You sure got rid of all that clattering...
 
Last edited:
How difficult was it to remove the crankshaft timing gear? Can be tough. Good sounds after all of the work, a good introduction to the more common Model A's miseries and cures. You might try an even slower idle with less advance and idle speed screw. When setting timing do it at the third notch in the up position. That way, when you're so inclined, you can go levers up and see how slow and quiet an A can really be.
 
The knock is gone. I still can hear some what I believe to be some valve clatter. Nothing drastic. The car has set up for some time so I hope with some drive time things will get settled in. I put in VR1 20-50 oil in and Marvel Mystery oil in the gas. Also with some of the inspection panels off when I was driving it I could hear some noise from the trans. When I got back I found it was low so I added some 600W to it and so far that has fixed that. I believe to be lucky and the crank gear came off pretty easy. I noticed the gear puller with the finer threads pulled it off when the puller with the more course threads wouldn't do much.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
I'm told those aluminum cam gears can make a little noise.

If the transmission was low better check the rear end if you haven't already.

Nice work and informative posts!
 
Aluminum gear can rattle,even if they backlash correctly. Now that you have it running right did you check the rod and main bearing clearances? it would suck to see all this work ultimately hammer out a loose bearing..
 
I did not check clearances. However today I noticed while running around 40 mph I could bring the timing lever up about a quarter of the way and the motor would quite down. What's the reason fo this?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
Garagekulture13 said:
I did not check clearances. However today I noticed while running around 40 mph I could bring the timing lever up about a quarter of the way and the motor would quite down. What's the reason fo this?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Probably worn bearings/pistons. Retarding the timing lowers combustion pressure thus making rattles quiet down. This was an old used car dealer trick to sell a clunker. The engine would sound good until the new owner had it tuned up. Setting the timing to proper specs would bring on the knocking.
 
You for sure want to check clearances, many things can click and clack without causing much trouble, if the bearings are loose they will get worse a lot faster.
 
This happened last night on the way home. When I started the car at work I noticed right away it sounded different. I work 2nd shift and got off at 11pm. So I decided it was a nice night I'd run by the lake on the way home. When I left the lake I noticed I had it to the floor and she didn't want to pull anymore. I was running about 45mph. The headlights were pulsing and when I got home I saw the driverside light was very dim. I don't know how or if it's all related. I'm just telling what happened. Once home she was running very poorly but she DID get me home. I pulled the plugs and found #4 was fouled and #3 was looking bad also. No gas smell on the plugs and the car never has smoked. I did mess with the metal shielded wire that runs up from the dash panel up to the light under the dash rail while sitting in the parking lot at work. It looked like it was pinched.
af23919f0e1a62b1f9440ce329baaaca.jpg
5353494808bb616cb8cab75238c16423.jpg


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
I may have missed it on an earlier thread but did you check the oil pump? A 29 that I worked on had a terrible knock and all it needed was the oil pump cleaned.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top