Chasing the knock.

camshaft endplay isnt important,its held in place by that spring and plunger you were asking about earlier..tell us how much crankshaft endplay you have..
 
I'm new here and am only now looking to buy my first A but I had a knock in on off-topic '53 Stovebolt 6. I spent a year chasing that thing an this was after a full rebuild of the motor (done by me). I and everyone who listened said the noise was at the back of the block. It wasn't until I invested $5 at Harbor Freight for a motor stethoscope that I found the issue. It was a loose dampener on the lower pulley slamming into the crank and sending the sound along the whole crank.

Anyway, it looks like you're on the right track but if not pick up one of those stethoscopes and listed to EVERYTHING.

That and I agree with others your car is beautiful - I'd refresh that motor in a second!

~ Carl
 
The model a engine requires periodic maintenance to maintain optimum performance.If the engine still has babbit rod and main bearings one should check the bearing oil clearance,and remove shims if necessary.When chasing a knock this step is vital,not only for longevity of the engine but proper diagnosis,an over spec rod or main clearance is one of the main reasons for a knock.
So many neglect this basic maintenance item with catastrophic results,bearing failure leads to expensive engine overhauls. A hobbyist with basic skills and attention to detail can perform this task,and should every time the oil pan is off.To back up this repair on an engine in this condition,light honing the cylinders and replacing rings along with hand lapping the valves insures proper performance.
 
I'm still pecking away at it. Trying to clean and paint what I can get to at this point. Also I realize my oil pump holder device is crude at best but it worked in a pinch. I will keep everyone up to date on my progress. Thanks to all for the help thus far.
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I can’t believe how much you have gotten done in such a short time.

Please tell us how it runs when you get it back together.

Looks great.
 
Looks good. I don't see a cotter pin in the fan nut, if that's an original fan
now would be a good time to throw it in the trash.

Bob
 

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Yes Sir look out for the fan. We had one blade fly off in a 52 ford truck, as we headed down the highway. Thought someone shot at us. The blade almost went through the hood!
 
I meant to add that you are doing a very nice job. And the best way is to do it yourself. Now you will be able to help out a fellow Model A person when the question comes up!
 
Bob C said:
Looks good. I don't see a cotter pin in the fan nut, if that's an original fan
now would be a good time to throw it in the trash.

Bob
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I just saw this post after I got the radiator back in and the wiring done. You are correct there is no cotter pin and the nut is not down far enough to get one in.

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Is the throttle linkage supposed to be curved like this or is it supposed to be flat? Straight up? I'm referring to the "U" shaped bracket that bolts to the back of the motor.
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Looks like some one put a washer between the nut and fan, that is probably
why you can't get the cotter pin in. The throttle control should be straight,
they get bent when you jack the front of the engine up without removing them first.

Bob
 
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The throttle linkage bracket is correct as pictured. It curves forward for proper clearance. It has two holes that need to be oiled also, besides oiling the bellcrank.
 
Ok. I bent it back as I was first told it was supposed to be straight. Once I did this it now is hitting the body. So is it supposed to be bent or straight? I thought I had gone to far but now after the 2nd comment believe maybe it was correct to begin with. Any help??

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The good news the car is back together. The bad news is it won't hit. Assumably it's something to do with timing. I checked the timing with the pin in, piston TDC, and the rotor button at the correct spot.
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Throttle linkage trick, Pick up a bunch at swap meets. Even if they are bent up. What's bent on one might be straight elsewhere. Almost all will need massaging and there are about 6 variants over the 4 years of production. Fortunately they are usually cheap and don't take much space on the shelf.
 
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