Chasing rear axle threads/

N

noyo55

Member
I'm at the point of finally finishing my brake job and need to a die to chase the threads on the outside of the axle. What size die is necessary, diameter and thread? Thanks
 
Do not use a die! A die will cut off the metal in the way leaving much weaker threads. You need to use a rethreader. A Rethreader moves the metal back into place.
 
Take a good axel nut, cut it in half, and clamp it on the inner good threads, than back it off to realign the threads.
 
Get a thread file and lightly dress the threads.

You have to be careful with Model A threads. Ford used tighter standard threads. In many cases if you chase the threads with off the shelf tap or dies you will find a small amount of metal taken off. The nut will then be much looser. Try taking a good Ford nut and compare it to a modern nut. You might be surprised at how much looser the modern stuff is.

You also have realize many nuts on the A are HARD. Take a file to some of the nuts and you may be surprised how many barely get a scratch.

I no longer use tap and die on A threads. I hand clean with picks on the inside threads and wire wheel the outside threads. I dress bad threads with a thread file.
 
Hi Noyo, To answer your question, the thread on your rear axle is a 5/8 - 18 NF class 3A thread. If you can get a hold of one, use a hex body thread restoring die as Mike suggested above. The other method is to use an adjustable die, opening it up as much as it will allow - then try your nut (is the nut in good shape?) - then allow the die to close a little - then try the nut again, etc. until you have a close fit. Your nut should be a grade 8 or class C nut at the minimum. Happy Motoring!

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www.burlingtoncrankshaft.com
 
If the threads are at the end of the axle by all means repair them. If the damaged threads are under the nut consider a new axle. You need to get the full torque when you install the axle nut or you risk having an axle break. I make this comment not knowing how bad or where your threads are damaged.

Charlie Stephens
 
Thanks guys!! I managed to recut with the nut. one axle had grunged threads on the end so went pretty easy. This was the axle I replaced. Somewhere along the way--way back when( before 64 when I got it ) some had put the drum/hub on with about 1 inch of key needless to say, it failed and wore a grove about 1/2 way through the axle. JUNK
 
The original axel nut was a special hardened nut ( refer to Dealers Price Lisr ) ; the rear drum axel nut should be torqued to at least 80 lbs or more to line up cotter key hole.
Like previously said by others, do not use a standard die to chase the threads on the axel.

Ron
 
Yea I got one a few yrs back, the seller had no idea what it was for and sold it for $5.00 Bucks. I paid him real fast. Iceman
 
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