CHARGE! Too much?

I've got a multi-meter I am using for continuity. As a non-electrition, my skills with it are limited. I can check voltage and continuity. That's about all I know. Is there a way to get a basic multi-meter to give amperage? I thought for amperage you had to be in part of the series.
 
sethkestenbaum said:
I've got a multi-meter I am using for continuity. As a non-electrition, my skills with it are limited. I can check voltage and continuity. That's about all I know. Is there a way to get a basic multi-meter to give amperage? I thought for amperage you had to be in part of the series.
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what is your voltage reading ? that can get you in the ball park
i set my voltage at about 7.8 at about 1000 rpm with all accys off
 
Mitch//pa said:
seth in the back of the les andrews red book is a voltage to amps conversion chart
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That chart assumes a correct battery and battery internal resistance typical of most.

Also measured at the battery terminal. Wiring resistance, connections and other resistances (even the ammeter itself) will increase the required voltage at the cutout to achieve the same amperage.

Best is to check the Ford ammeter. Either unwire it and use another verified ammeter in it's place or at some other point in the current path.

Harbor Freight sells a dandy CHEAP digital meter which can be used for DC current up to 10 amps. They are a value far beyond what they cost IMHO.

Of course when they go kapooey - they become a red plastic case filled with brass and plastic. But the loss is small. And plenty more where they come from.

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Joe K
 
I left the fiver brush on and checked for change in voltage on either side of the charging circuit with a multi-meter

1) with the negative lead to the positive battery terminal and the positive lead to the screw on the sides of the cutout (so the generator casing), I had no charge.

2) with the positive lead to the negative battery terminal and the negative lead to the generator output bolt (before the cutout), I had a charge of 0.5v

Tom or Mitch or someone with some insight, where should I be looking for the resistance?
 
Hi, I had the same issue with my car the other summer. The problem I found was just a weak ground connection. Remove the rear floor board so you have some room to work. Buy or make up a cheap ground strap and connect one end to the ground post of the battery clamp bolt and the other to a trasmission top bolt. It cured the over charging problem on my car. It is only going to cost a few dollars.
 
sethkestenbaum said:
I left the fiver brush on and checked for change in voltage on either side of the charging circuit with a multi-meter

1) with the negative lead to the positive battery terminal and the positive lead to the screw on the sides of the cutout (so the generator casing), I had no charge.

2) with the positive lead to the negative battery terminal and the negative lead to the generator output bolt (before the cutout), I had a charge of 0.5v

Tom or Mitch or someone with some insight, where should I be looking for the resistance?
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Case No. 2 looks like a 0.5V voltage drop between the generator out and the battery in. (including the cut-out which has some resistance because of the coil/contact.)

Case No. 1 looks like you're checking ground to ground so I'm not surprised you get no voltage.

These are looking like they should.

Joe K

Edit: On PCT&A's comments: I've used "No-Al-Ox" to good effect on most any connection. Originally designed for aluminum to copper junction in house wiring, it's essentially a "conductive grease" which maintains good electrical contact. Works good on battery posts - but clean them using the circular brush beforehand - lead oxide is non-conductive. No-Al-Ox is available at the Orange place in a small applicator bottle - shake before application.

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Joe, I will try something similar. I previously used a jumper cable to connect the positive on the battery (after my shut off switch) to the transmission's bolt behind the starter (to which the starter is already grounded). Nothing changed.

My thought was in case 1 that if there was a change, it would lead me to check resistance in that 'half' of the circuit. Same in case 2.
 
Paul, I don't know. It is "new" from last year. Even if it isn't accurate, I don't like that I can't get the settings on the third brush to low-to-no charge.
 
I have a cousin who is an electrician. He agreed to stop by this afternoon to help me out (and to bring an amp meter and other tools). With this I decided to "work remotely" and stay where I keep the car. I continued to tinker around with my backup 5-brush PH on the car. I fiddled with the connection points, loosened the fan belt, tightened the grounds, moved the adjustable brush back and forth a few times, and did a bunch of stuff prior to his arrival.

He shows up. I take the car out of the garage. We fire her up (first time since yesterday) and the ammeter is reading 4 amps charge with high idle (NOT the 10 to 12 amps expected). Apparently the issue is now resolved. I have no idea what was done to make it right. I have not yet braved the removal of the 5-brush and the re-installation of the 3-brush. I guess I don't touch anything until it acts up again. For now, I will keep the car at 4amps and drive my next road trip with the parking lights on (so I have a 1-2 amp charge).

If anyone has any insight, I am happy to read/listen/learn. THANK YOU to all who helped and made suggestions. Is an EVR in my future? Perhaps. Is a new set of wiring going to happen? Perhaps.
 
Joe K, We didn't bother measuring. After he left, I smacked my head and said, "dang" because we should have checked. I suspect that the readings are right, as they seem to be where they should be now....even though I don't know why.
 
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