changing transmission

LopezCarguy

LopezCarguy

Senior Member
Have noisy trans in cabby, want to trade it for one I just rebuilt with new bearings etc...can I just lower rear end with spring attached and roll all backwards to replace trans...do I have to include the bell housing or can I get to four bolts inside bell housing holding trans...:(:eek:
 
I would like to hear some comments on how best to support the rear of the car so that you don't get hurt or worse when you are under it. Ed
 
Ed in Maine said:
I would like to hear some comments on how best to support the rear of the car so that you don't get hurt or worse when you are under it. Ed
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On my coupe I used jack stands on the frame just forward of the rear wheels and a 4x4 across the back under the bumper brackets supported with a stack of 12" 4x6's on each end. I removed the wheels, disconnected the brake rods and everything else that holds the rear assembly in place, lowered the diff. onto two of my shop rollarounds, while supporting the front on a heavy cardboard box so when it dropped it wouldn't hit the floor, and pulled it back. I kept the trans supported with a small floor jack below and a rope and 2x4 above until I got the flywheel unbolted. It's not an easy one-man job, but that's the way I was able to do it.
 
I jack stand the frame, leave spring attached to axle and drop from crossmember, unbolt front of torque tube and pull it back. Remove transmitter.
 
I would advise you hook up with someone who is knowledgeable about removing and replacing a transmission in a Model A and enlist their help. There is surely someone in your local club who has this experience.

You will need four jack stands and I would strongly advise you obtain a proper spring spreader and leave the rear spring attached to the frame of the car. If you pull the rear with the spring attached and the 80 year old rusted center bolt comes apart you could be in a world of hurt. The 3\8" center bolt was never meant to hold the tension of a rear spring when under tension even when it was new.

The bell housing has to come out with the transmission as they are bolted together from the inside.

You should also be aware that there is an early and late rear bearing retainer used with a Model A transmission. The early retainer has an irregular bolt pattern, the late has a symmetrical bolt pattern. Before you install the new transmission you should check that the U-joint coupler in your car will match the bolt pattern of the new transmission. If it does not you will have to use the rear bearing retainer from the old transmission. Otherwise, when you go to install the six bolts on the U-joint coupler you will find they do not match and you will have to pull the rear again.

Tom Endy
 
Good catch from Brentwood Bob on chocking the wheels. I also forgot to specify that I leave the rear sping attached to the frame as Tom Endy describes. Also as Tom mentions, if you haven't done this before, an experienced helper is a big plus.
 
Tom Endy said:
I would advise you hook up with someone who is knowledgeable about removing and replacing a transmission in a Model A and enlist their help. There is surely someone in your local club who has this experience.

You will need four jack stands and I would strongly advise you obtain a proper spring spreader and leave the rear spring attached to the frame of the car. If you pull the rear with the spring attached and the 80 year old rusted center bolt comes apart you could be in a world of hurt. The 3\8" center bolt was never meant to hold the tension of a rear spring when under tension even when it was new.

The bell housing has to come out with the transmission as they are bolted together from the inside.

You should also be aware that there is an early and late rear bearing retainer used with a Model A transmission. The early retainer has an irregular bolt pattern, the late has a symmetrical bolt pattern. Before you install the new transmission you should check that the U-joint coupler in your car will match the bolt pattern of the new transmission. If it does not you will have to use the rear bearing retainer from the old transmission. Otherwise, when you go to install the six bolts on the U-joint coupler you will find they do not match and you will have to pull the rear again.

Tom Endy
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I'll be ordering a mitchell transmission and I'll have to get under my 29 tudor to see which bolt pattern I have. I know what the later symmetrical retainer looks like because the extra transmission I have has one. If anyone has a picture of the early irregular retainer please post it so I can see what they look like. - Thanks.
 
Thanks to everyone for help, I am very lucky in that I have a car hoist, so I can lift car off rear spring easily...the big question I guess was could I get to bolts inside bell housing or does the bell housing have to come off also..guess I got that answered, and Tom I anticipated differences in rear bearing retainer so have not put gasket in rebuilt trans till other one is out...then I will swap out what is needed...
 
LopezCarguy said:
Tom; As for help, I live on Island..the only help I get is from you guys..thanks
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I did my own Jack stands rear only out of way remove wheels drop down drop rear end roll out. You got it Dick. Need help Gary on the other island.:):) with Bell Housing/unit.
 
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Gary; Thanks for offer, we are leaving for Az. for two months so will call in April if I get stuck...taking bunch of stuff to be chromed down in Phoenix..way way cheaper....have a good spring..Dick
 
Tom Endy said:
I would advise you hook up with someone who is knowledgeable about removing and replacing a transmission in a Model A and enlist their help. There is surely someone in your local club who has this experience.

You will need four jack stands and I would strongly advise you obtain a proper spring spreader and leave the rear spring attached to the frame of the car. If you pull the rear with the spring attached and the 80 year old rusted center bolt comes apart you could be in a world of hurt. The 3\8" center bolt was never meant to hold the tension of a rear spring when under tension even when it was new.

The bell housing has to come out with the transmission as they are bolted together from the inside.

You should also be aware that there is an early and late rear bearing retainer used with a Model A transmission. The early retainer has an irregular bolt pattern, the late has a symmetrical bolt pattern. Before you install the new transmission you should check that the U-joint coupler in your car will match the bolt pattern of the new transmission. If it does not you will have to use the rear bearing retainer from the old transmission. Otherwise, when you go to install the six bolts on the U-joint coupler you will find they do not match and you will have to pull the rear again.

Tom Endy
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Great advice from one of the experts !
Wayne
 
I just put a new transmission in my '30 coupe. I did not encounter any big problems. I have the Les Andrews book which gives step-by-step instructions for the whole process. I followed the book and went slowly and it all worked out great. I did need an extra set of hands a couple of times. I left the spring attached to the rear end. I found the biggest issue was getting everything lined up when I put the rear end back in, from getting the drive shaft into the u-joint, to lining up the brake rods so they ended up where they belonged and getting the rear end up with the spring in the cross member in the proper position. The whole project ended up being easier than I had envisioned.
 
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