Changing gaskets on Oil pan

JoeMarine

JoeMarine

Senior Member
Gents,
I plan to change the oil and gaskets on my oil pan this weekend.
Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Should be easy. . .I hope!
 
Its not too hard a job, just tedious. Its best to get or make the 'thing-a-ma-jig'[ tool] to hold the oil pump in place and make some guide dowels [ cut-off 5/16" bolts] to ease installation of the pan against the oil pump spring. Pop out the dip tray and clean the goop [ technical term] from the pan.
If going thru all this work, why not check and adjust the bearings and clean and check the oil pump.
 
I've posted about it on my blog (with photos) the other month---or many months ago. When doing it, I utilized FAR TOO MUCH sealant. The guide bolts to place the pan back are key to successful re-installation, as well as having an extra pair of hands helping you out.

When popping the dip tray out of the pan, I liked the "use a baseball bat" method of prying it out. The "slam it on the ground" method didn't work and only spooked the neighbors.

I hope this helps.
 
Lacking the extra set of hands, I have used a small scissor jack to hold the pan in place whilst getting the first few bolts in place. The jack used in conjunction with the guide bolts works really well in getting things located correctly and then holding them in place.

Just don't tighten the pan bolts down to tight. 20 INCH POUNDS (5 or 6 Ft Lbs) is plenty. Or just use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a short handle.
 
you can hold the oil pump in place by removing the plug and threading in a 1/8th pipe tap, just remember to remove it and replace the plug when the pan is installed. I glue the gaskets to the block with Permatex high tack, use only a smidgen of RTV at the joints of the gaskets by the rear and front main seals and at the same location on the pan. I do not use sealant on the pan side of the gasket. I use pan snap ups and a floor jack to re install.

http://www.amazon.com/SNAP-UPS-Oil-Pan/dp/B0049XR9VM?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
I use twine thru the block holes to hold the aluminum sprayed gasket in place. a couple of bolts minus the heads for orientation, and the floor jack would make the job of starting the bolts go easier. I use an open end wrench, and a pair of needle nose pliers to get the pesky rear inspection plate bolted in. Start one side then position for the center bolt. the 3rd one is the pesky one. shift the steering wheel to clear the front pan bolts. so you probably will have the rear tire chocked and the front axle on jack stands. I agree to look around and inspect the rod caps, and clearances. cotter keys can be missing, and I have seen the results of having the rod cap dipper put on backwards. the cup faces the cam. bob
 
Yikes, Well I have never done this as I have only owned my car for 2 weeks, but it seems as if lifting the motor out of the chassis then draining the oil is the simplest answer?
 
aojo, not necessary to pull the engine. Pulling the pan is a pain the first few times, but don't pull the engine.
First, put the front axle on jack stands to raise it 6" or so, so you have some room. Turn the wheels all the way to the left or right to get the tie rod out of the way of the front bolts. Follow the suggestions above. Look on the Search of this forum for placement of the ends of the gasket at the front and rear seals. If they are not right, you will have a leak.
 
aojo said:
Yikes, Well I have never done this as I have only owned my car for 2 weeks, but it seems as if lifting the motor out of the chassis then draining the oil is the simplest answer?
Click to expand...

Are you thinking of just draining the oil or taking the pan off? Oil draining is simple but the pan removal is ??
 
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