Changing clutch on fresh 59ab build

36coupe

36coupe

Well-known member
I want to change the clutch on the fresh building 59ab. There is a 10” on there right now and I want to change the flywheel and clutch to a 9”
Still on the stand only run a few minutes.
Do I need to change and gaskets or seals or can I take off the pan and change the clutch and reuse the gaskets and seals?
 
No reason you can't re-use the gaskets/seals unless you damage them on removal. Dry them off best you can, apply a bit of sealer in the corners and on any minor rough spots and reassemble. I've done it many times on many different engines-just have to be careful everything stays in place.


Terry
 
I have a 59ab, merc crank, merc cam, single 97, with an early flywheel with the big blob weight cut off, standard 9" clutch and PP from FT Wayne, and I can make the clutch slip at low rpm's. I like the response, it winds up fast, but you need slightly heavier springs to run a 9"
 
cas3 said:
I have a 59ab, merc crank, merc cam, single 97, with an early flywheel with the big blob weight cut off, standard 9" clutch and PP from FT Wayne, and I can make the clutch slip at low rpm's. I like the response, it winds up fast, but you need slightly heavier springs to run a 9"
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How much did you lighten the flywheel? Big blob weight?
 
Yes, Tim is correct on the blob, thanks Tim ! Sorry, I can not remember how much weight that takes off, should have written it down. I got the idea from the writings of the late great Rumble seat. Once I get over about half throttle the pressure plate centrifical weight kick in enough to hold, but at lower throttle you stomp on the gas and it will slip. All new parts and flywheel ground after I trimmed it in my lathe
 
Back to gaskets and seals. When I built my current 8BA, I was very careful to follow the instructions exactly when I installed the rear seal. I was rewarded with an engine with no oil leaks. This is the engine in which I (foolishly) installed a new oil pump from Speedway Motors. The engine only produced a maximum of 40 psi at speed (Ford specification is 57 psi). After some discussion here and on the H.A.M.B., I decided to replace the Speedway pump with a tested good Ford pump. I was very careful removing the pan (engine on a stand upside down), and ended up with an engine with oil pressure right on spec and a slight leak in the rear seal.

I guess the moral of the story is that these pan gaskets and seals are intended for one-time use only. You can take your chances, and if you're lucky, you might get away with it, but nothing's for sure.
 
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Also, did you use any gasket sealer on the block or pan? Usually the sealer will catch/tear the gaskets . . . so I always count of replacing the pan gasket set.

If you didn't use sealer, you might get lucky . . . only time will tell!

After all, my time is worth a LOT more than a pan gasket set. :D
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Also, did you use any gasket sealer on the block or pan? Usually the sealer will catch/tear the gaskets . . . so I always count of replacing the pan gasket set.

If you didn't use sealer, you might get lucky . . . only time will tell!

After all, my time is worth a LOT more than a pan gasket set. :D
Click to expand...

No gasket sealers, mostly wondering about the crank seals
 
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