Changed my steering column mount today!

[sphanna]

I was able to find only one steering column mount but it was 3/4 inch too short. There are both sizes made for the diff between 29 & 30 & 31. I made a nice spacer from a hardwood board and painted it. I worked perfectly and looked like it was made for it.

 

[DBSHELTON]

I installed one of these column mounts on my 29 Tudor yesterday. I feel better about getting the column isolated from the tank.

 

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

JB,
In 1977, my younger brother and I drove my (at the time) early 28 Fordor from Long Beach, CA to Bend, OR. I had the cowl vent door open when we drove through a huge area of dragon flies. It took me a little while to close the cowl vent door and it was a real challenge getting our uninvited guests out.

 

[macdonge]

I'm launching into the installation of one of these column mounts on my '30 roadster and, not having ever removed the dash rail before, have a question for you experts. Is it held on by just the 5 screws (2 small ones at either end and 3 larger ones left, right and center)? I have the screws out and am having difficulty getting it to come free. Do I just wail on it with a deadblow? Or am I missing something? Perhaps just the layer(s) of paint along the edges making it stubborn?

 

[Ak Sourdough]

That little panel will not just pull off toward you. Lift one end. Just had mine off and it was happiest when I lifted the right side first. Same with putting it back, I put the left side in, then just set the right side down in place. Keep it parallel to the windshield.

 

[Ak Sourdough]

I bought another 29 Tudor last fall. It was taken out of service 25 years ago when the tank started leaking at the column bracket. It came with an aftermarket cast aluminum bracket to bolt to the cowl/tank flange that the previous owner had purchased. Last weekend I fixed it.


First I charged the tank with CO2 a non combustible gas to replace the oxygen in the tank (the only big bang I want in my shop is the TV show). Then used a cut off disc to remove the part of the original bracket that encircles the top half of the column so I would have access to the end of the rivets. Then I used a die grinder to remove the swedged out ends of the rivets to make them flush to the bracket. Next step was a torch to melt the solder while I pried gently with a flat screwdriver. The bracket gave up easily and came right off the bottom of the tank. First photo.



With CO2 still flowing into the top of the tank (it's heavier than oxygen and will displace it, pushing the oxygen out the top of the tank) I ground the rivets flush to the tank and cleaned away any solder in the area of the rivets. Then I just welded the end of the rivets to the bottom of the tank. That's the second photo.



I put a few gallons of water in the tank to test for leaks and left it overnight. Next day everything was still dry. For some reason the aluminum column bracket had a 3rd bolt hole on a big flange that was in the way of the little inside cowl panel, so I cut that off. Then it was about an inch from being aligned with the holes in the tank/cowl, so I drilled new holes in the tank flange outside of the seam weld and bolted it in place.


This the way I fixed my leaky tank, I'm not recommending that anyone else do it this way.

 

[History]

Nice, I had a gas tank leak welded by a friend of mine (deceased, man I miss him) who did it the same way. He understood what he was doing and welded it up right.

I bought another 29 Tudor last fall. It was taken out of service 25 years ago when the tank started leaking at the column bracket. It came with an aftermarket cast aluminum bracket to bolt to the cowl/tank flange that the previous owner had purchased. Last weekend I fixed it.


First I charged the tank with CO2 a non combustible gas to replace the oxygen in the tank (the only big bang I want in my shop is the TV show). Then used a cut off disc to remove the part of the original bracket that encircles the top half of the column so I would have access to the end of the rivets. Then I used a die grinder to remove the swedged out ends of the rivets to make them flush to the bracket. Next step was a torch to melt the solder while I pried gently with a flat screwdriver. The bracket gave up easily and came right off the bottom of the tank. First photo.



With CO2 still flowing into the top of the tank (it's heavier than oxygen and will displace it, pushing the oxygen out the top of the tank) I ground the rivets flush to the tank and cleaned away any solder in the area of the rivets. Then I just welded the end of the rivets to the bottom of the tank. That's the second photo.



I put a few gallons of water in the tank to test for leaks and left it overnight. Next day everything was still dry. For some reason the aluminum column bracket had a 3rd bolt hole on a big flange that was in the way of the little inside cowl panel, so I cut that off. Then it was about an inch from being aligned with the holes in the tank/cowl, so I drilled new holes in the tank flange outside of the seam weld and bolted it in place.


This the way I fixed my leaky tank, I'm not recommending that anyone else do it this way.

 

[History]

I did this to mine today, piece of red oak and I believe I’m happier with the results than metal. Mine had quite an upward bow in dash and column mount. I was able to take a sharp chisel and hand plane a bow. It’s fits perfect using the same screw holes for all.

I was able to find only one steering column mount but it was 3/4 inch too short. There are both sizes made for the diff between 29 & 30 & 31. I made a nice spacer from a hardwood board and painted it. I worked perfectly and looked like it was made for it.