Change to 12 volt negative ground

[nrball]

If somebody wants to keep 6V because it's a) original and b) working fine, then power to you! I kept mine 6V for a year before changing it and to be honest it was pretty good. But I want to do longer, more frequent trips and this calls for a couple of accessories and the convenience of 12V. Ive recently finished a 12V conversion on mine so a quick run through of the things I did:

Alternator (I got one that looks like a generator but you don't have to, obviously)
Coil adaptor kit + pertronix 1.5ohm coil
12v sealed beam headlights
12v bulbs throughout
1 X 12V to 6V reducer for the gauges
You don't have to, but I took the opportunity to ditch the the single thermal fuse and split out a few of the systems through a fuse panel. Also, I don't run anything through the ignition switch anymore, I use it to earth a relay that does all the heavy lifting.
On my car, the starter button earths the starter solenoid to crank the motor. I've kept the 6v solenoid for now because I like the factory starter button. If it fails I will try to find a 12v equivalent solenoid.
I am using a 6v starter, man it kicks hard....for now.
Oh and a 12v battery of course!




Sent from my CPH1917 using Tapatalk

 

[4t8v8]

Yes there is : high compression, large displacement OH V8 engines. They did try to stick with 6 volts for quite a while before they decided they had to change (e.g. Oldsmobile through 1951). Smaller gauge (and therefore cheaper) wiring also had something to do with it.

Yep. Plus a lot less electrical problems. Much less finicky. 6 volts is fine if you keep everything in top condition.

 

[4t8v8]

If somebody wants to keep 6V because it's a) original and b) working fine, then power to you! I kept mine 6V for a year before changing it and to be honest it was pretty good. But I want to do longer, more frequent trips and this calls for a couple of accessories and the convenience of 12V. Ive recently finished a 12V conversion on mine so a quick run through of the things I did:

Alternator (I got one that looks like a generator but you don't have to, obviously)
Coil adaptor kit + pertronix 1.5ohm coil
12v sealed beam headlights
12v bulbs throughout
1 X 12V to 6V reducer for the gauges
You don't have to, but I took the opportunity to ditch the the single thermal fuse and split out a few of the systems through a fuse panel. Also, I don't run anything through the ignition switch anymore, I use it to earth a relay that does all the heavy lifting.
On my car, the starter button earths the starter solenoid to crank the motor. I've kept the 6v solenoid for now because I like the factory starter button. If it fails I will try to find a 12v equivalent solenoid.
I am using a 6v starter, man it kicks hard....for now.
Oh and a 12v battery of course!




Sent from my CPH1917 using Tapatalk

I made the same changes but mounted a 12V solenoid on a plastic insulator block and use the button to ground it.

 

[Heyou]

Thanks G.M. changed the cables as you suggested on my 1939 Ford 5 Window Deluxe Coupe yesterday to 1/0 from batterycablesusa.com and it started up like a young Thoughbred wanting to leave the starting gate. Great addition for the old flathead.

David
The Villages Fl.