Champion 3x electrode

griffin

Member
Looking at my 1st set of 3x plugs, it appears the side electrode points to the side of the center electrode, not hover over the top as most other plugs do.

Am I correct or am I looking at plugs somebody has gotten their mileage out of? Another issue that appears to me is the corrosion on the body of the plug. I have no idea the age of these plugs. These are flat-top 3 plugs.

My plugs are gapped at .045, which is obviously waaaayy too much.

I'm not going to reuse these plugs, just curious how the electrodes are supposed to be positioned.
 

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Griffin,

this is an ancient spark plug like the one used in the past. Collectible. Nowadays the ground electrode sits above the middle electrode.


btw.: Modern iridium spark plugs are recommended.
 
The 3X plugs are the best plugs (IMHO) for the Model A. They can be gapped on the side of the electrode with no performance problems. Remember, this is a very low compression, low HP engine.
 
This is perhaps some worthless information for you Al.
I remember the negative electrodes on early aviation sparkplugs. Like one in the picture below but two opposing platinum wires. The second picture is a modern aviation spark plug using plug electrodes which is probably the only type available on today’s market. pictures from the internet.
 

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The plugs were made that way so that any oil or liquid gasoline (remember that gasoline was at one time close to kerosene) would drip off the electrodes to clear them.

Years ago there was a machine that was used to sandblast plugs to clean them up. You may try that on these plugs. You can just use a blast cabinet.
 
Those too young won't remember rebuilt spark plugs, with new electrodes welded on to replace the worn ones. Things were rebuilt in the golden years. Maybe those still have some life.

I thought such little things were only repaired in the poor times in Germany.



Here are some interesting things from my old spark plug collection. There were also spark plugs that could be dismantled, new seals and a new insulated center electrode were put in.

Repaired spark plugs were embossed and stamped with "Repariert" and the name of the repair company
 

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One of the ways to change the gap is to loosen the nut holding the ceramic and rotate to less worn area of center electrode
 
Some more worthless information for you.
It doesn’t seem so long ago, but probably 30 years, when aviation fuel (avgas) had a lead component. At a 100hly service it was necessary to remove lead in the upper reach of the ceramic insulating cylinder. One could purchase a special cleaning tool but I used to use a disused hacksaw blade which I had ground down on a bench grinder to a blunt point with a reach of about 1 and quarter inch. This was followed by a clean on a spark plug cleaner. I didn’t put platinum electrode plugs on a cleaner.
 
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How does one rebuild the 3X plugs? I have a set that were acting up so I want to clean and rebuild them. Where does one get new seals for them?

Thanks,

Mike
 
I thought such little things were only repaired in the poor times in Germany.

Here are some interesting things from my old spark plug collection. There were also spark plugs that could be dismantled, new seals and a new insulated center electrode were put in.

Repaired spark plugs were embossed and stamped with "Repariert" and the name of the repair company

Hi Werner,

FWIW, according to era Bosch documents, the original spark plugs for German assembled Model A's for 1928-1930 are the BOSCH DZ 20/3 (detachable) or BOSCH Z 20/3 (non-detachable).
473954
473953


For 1931 (and newer), according to era Ford and Bosch documents, original spark plugs for German built Model A's are the BOSCH DZ 45/1 (detachable) or the BOSCH Z 45/1 (non-detachable).
473955


Brad in Maryland
 

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I have the same plugs in my 1929 Town Sedan. They were in it when I purchased it 8 years ago. This thread has answered many of my questions. Thanks guys!
 
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