cast-iron welding ?

dmsfrr

Well-known member
I'm taking a vote.... How reliable is this repair?

It's a driver side '57 T-Bird (only) exhaust manifold, the lower tab at the rear of cyl. #8 broke off, was built back up and smoothed. The missing piece was fully outside the exhaust passage.
If I use it, it's my intention to mount it to the head with a large washer under the bolt head and without a gasket, as original.
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I would have it machined flat before mounting. Also, check hardness of weld to determine whether to mill or grind. Looks like it is welded good. Wouldn't be afraid to use it. Good luck!
 
I put a straight-edge over the whole thing, with a light on the other side, and it looks good.
Having it lightly surfaced can't hurt....
I'm more concerned about it possibly breaking off again and having an exhaust leak.

Thanks
 
It looks flat but it looks pretty thin, in my opinion. If that's factory style, I guess it would work. I'm comparing the flange thickness to the other ones. It just seems like a tiny little ear that would break even if it was cast that way originally.
 
Run a big flat file over the mounting surface so it's nice and flat. Use a big flat washer and take it easy tightening it up. Are you using bolts or studs? On that one I'd rather see a stud used. But a good fix if it holds up.
 
It should be good with the stock flat washer, if you don't over tighten it. The holes are over sized to allow the manifold to get longer and shorter. The casting should slide under the washers. I don't know the correct torque for these bolts, but a good guess would be as low as 12 to 16 pounds feet.
 
Yes the tab is a small one, I guess to match where the head casting is curved in on the bottom of the front & back ends so you can put a socket on the lower head bolts.

Thanks for all the advice and tips. They're much appreciated.
I'll give this manifold a try.
It's easy enough to change later if it leaks after a while. The hard part is finding a good used one.
I may have to eventually spring for a re-pop part.

Thanks again.

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If you are going to try to arc-weld the pieces, talk to a local welder. I think he will tell you that the weld will not hold unless heat is applied for a time after weld is complete.
 
I had a engine from a wreck with only 7000 miles on it and it broke the bell housing ear off. Had it welded in Nevada IA, they heat the whole block up. Reassembled the engine with the original parts and it went over 100,000 miles without ever cracking or breaking. I just figured they really knew what they were doing. The shop owner told me the dimensions of the block wouldn't change since the whole block was heated.
 
For a small tab on an exhaust manifold, I have had great luck gas welding them. Never had a come back.
 
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