Cast iron sediment bowl leak

[fundytides]

I have the original cast iron sediment bowl on my 31 Roadster. It has a persitant leak where the line to the carburetor connects. I tried to stop the leak by tightening the fitting on the gas line but it didn't make any difference. When I looked at the seat in the bowl for the ferrule on the line, it looks partially rusty and probably isn't allowing the ferrule to seat properly. Has anyone successfully been able to fix something like this and if so, how? Are the only alternatives to either find a better bowl, or replace with the glass type asembly?

 

[1930artdeco]

If the seat where the ferrule goes is pitted that badly I think a replacement is in order. IF you are really really good and careful you may be able to add some JB weld that spot and file/grind it down. That may allow for a good seat.

Mike

 

[alexiskai]

FB user rackops sells fully restored sediment bulbs with filters if you end up needing one.

 

[Ray in La Mesa]

I think I saw somewhere that Dremel has a ball the correct size to reface the ferrule seat.

 

[Trapdoor2]

I think I saw somewhere that Dremel has a ball the correct size to reface the ferrule seat.

Snyder's sells the dremel bit that cuts the correct seat angle. Same one that restores the Zenith carb ferrule seat. I used it in a hand drill (hurdy-gurdy) and it did a great job on my Zenith. No more leak!

 

[Synchro909]

Would some sort of fuel proof goop seal it up?

 

[Gary WA]

I have the original cast iron sediment bowl on my 31 Roadster. It has a persitant leak where the line to the carburetor connects. I tried to stop the leak by tightening the fitting on the gas line but it didn't make any difference. When I looked at the seat in the bowl for the ferrule on the line, it looks partially rusty and probably isn't allowing the ferrule to seat properly. Has anyone successfully been able to fix something like this and if so, how? Are the only alternatives to either find a better bowl, or replace with the glass type asembly?

I have seen where the ferrule on gas line that goes into the cast iron is cracked-look closely!!

 

[Ray in La Mesa]

I had good luck another way if you don't have access to a new ferrule & line. The ferrule was tight on the gas line but the seat in the sediment bulb was pitted or scored like yours. I took yellow teflon tape (the gas stuff) and carefully wrapped it around the ferrule (back as far as you can from the end of the line) so it doesn't get into the line) for about 2 turns then carefully installed it so as to get as much surface coverage on the ferrule as possible.

 

[Jim/GA]

If you machine or grind the seat down a bit, you may need oversize ferrules or else the hex nut portion of the tube nut will hit the cast iron body before the ferrule is fully seated and sealing.

One example:
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=979363&cat=41707

Handy to have.

 

[old ugly]

you may try making a short pc of 1/4" line with a new ferrel that has been crimped/compressed on. then some valve grinding compound and turn it into the cast seat. depends how rusty it is. you may clean it a bit.
do that with it off of the car so you can wash it out good after.

i like the glass ones better, you get so see what is coming from in your gas tank.

 

[old ugly]

as said above. check for a crack. that bowl will catch water and you won't even know it. in the winter, if it was out in the cold, it will freeze and break.

 

[katy]

For a temporary fix, maybe a small O-ring on the line, between the ferrule and the sediment bowl.

 

[fundytides]

Thanks everyone for the info and suggestions. I will try the o-ring for a temp fix and order the dremel grinder and obversize ferrules. I will also check for a cracked ferrule.