Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
I don't know how close you are to Montebello but Randy Gross is always an option 714-292-8660.
Cast-iron brake drum fit
- Thread starter Richard Lorenz
- Start date
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
I am assuming your new shoes haven't been arced and that is the problem. Don't try and cut the drums to match the shoes or you will be throwing away valuable metal in the drums. You might try contacting Randy Gross and see if he can recommend a shop, melmodela@aol.com or call (714) 292-8660.
Charlie Stephens
Brent, I have always enjoyed your posts with all the info they provide. I was told awhile back that woven linings are too hard for cast iron drums and that bonded linings are recommended for them. I have this setup on my Tudor and it seems to work very well. My question is does it matter which linings you use on cast iron drums?
Rusty Sills
Junior Member
Yep, I'd think so. Several shops have told me to to bring them right down ... but when I showed up with the assemblies they acted like cows looking at a new gate!
So far I haven't been able to sort through those that think, say or guess that they can ... from one that knows they can ... because they've done it.
RS
So far I haven't been able to sort through those that think, say or guess that they can ... from one that knows they can ... because they've done it.
RS
Rusty Sills
Junior Member
Yep, I'd think so. Several shops have told me to to bring them right down ... but when I showed up with the assemblies they acted like cows looking at a new gate!
So far I haven't been able to sort through those that think, say or guess that they can ... from one that knows they can ... because they've done it.
RS
So far I haven't been able to sort through those that think, say or guess that they can ... from one that knows they can ... because they've done it.
RS
The fronts shouldn't be a problem, but the rears need a small arbor. Check around to
see if there is still a shop doing old VW Beetle work. You use the same arbor to cut
the rear drums.
As far as new drums go I had an Auto Parts store and sold hundreds of them over the
years. Each new drum was made under size and had to be turned before they were used. This was to make up for any hub pressing and because the drums were machined
soon after being cast and would actually move some after sitting.
see if there is still a shop doing old VW Beetle work. You use the same arbor to cut
the rear drums.
As far as new drums go I had an Auto Parts store and sold hundreds of them over the
years. Each new drum was made under size and had to be turned before they were used. This was to make up for any hub pressing and because the drums were machined
soon after being cast and would actually move some after sitting.
Patrick L.
Well-known member
I too agree with many of the responses.
Drums should be cut and trued upon installation, but, I don't like to cut any more than necessary to true them.
I don't worry much about arcing, especially since ours disappeared somehow back in the 60s or 70s. So, to cut the shoes to make the diameter smaller or somewhat arc them, you can lay some sandpaper inside the drum and carefully 'rub' the shoes against the paper. I too would rather replace friction material more often than cut the drums. Tapering the shoe ends is important.
These old brakes are not self energizing like newer drum brake systems so they are a bit more finicky to get right. For what they are they work pretty good, but, I won't stir the pot any more than that.
As for the type of friction material, I've always been told and have stayed with woven for steel and bonded for cast. [ I still like and use steel, probably one of the few]
Drums should be cut and trued upon installation, but, I don't like to cut any more than necessary to true them.
I don't worry much about arcing, especially since ours disappeared somehow back in the 60s or 70s. So, to cut the shoes to make the diameter smaller or somewhat arc them, you can lay some sandpaper inside the drum and carefully 'rub' the shoes against the paper. I too would rather replace friction material more often than cut the drums. Tapering the shoe ends is important.
These old brakes are not self energizing like newer drum brake systems so they are a bit more finicky to get right. For what they are they work pretty good, but, I won't stir the pot any more than that.
As for the type of friction material, I've always been told and have stayed with woven for steel and bonded for cast. [ I still like and use steel, probably one of the few]