Carburator paint ?

Daves55Sedan

Daves55Sedan

Well-known member
I am rebuilding one of my spare Ford EBU carburators. It was real dirty so I left it sitting in carb cleaning solution for three days, then I cleaned it off with carb/choke cleaner and an old toothbrush. The cleaner took off the old bronze finish.
EBUcarb1.JPG
I have done a lot of reading about Eastwoods carb coatings and I am very skeptical. Seems like an epoxy coating would be best, if you could coat the parts without getting any paint in the holes, etc. What have you found that you can use to coat the main body and air-horn with that will stand up to oil/dirt and especially not be harmed by gasoline/ethanol spillage or periodically wiping off with a cleaning solution?
 
The Eastwood coating looks good but will come off because of the ethanol, it just can’t stand up to it. I have never heard of anyone using epoxy but would like to know as well.
 
I've read somewhere on one of these car forums(HAMB, Fordbarn or AACA) that there were some coatings that were achieved by using chemicals and electric current that sounded a lot like plating. It didn't seem too complicated and not too expensive. I just forgot what it was called.
 
There are places that will dichromate the original type coloring on the die cast zinc castings (air horn and bowl on your carb), but costs a little money. The Holley Custom Shop in Bowling Green, TN is probably the best at getting a realistic coloring.
I believe "Uncle Max" on the Ford Barn has the chemicals and equipment to do this also.
I have used Eastwoods "Carb Renew Bronze" coating before, and looks good if you take time to detail it right. It is fuel resistant, but like Hot Rod Reverend said, the ethanol will effect it if it comes in contact.

The link with info for Holley is below.

Sal


https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/holleycarbs.php
 
scicala said:
There are places that will dichromate the original type coloring on the die cast zinc castings (air horn and bowl on your carb), but costs a little money.

The Holley Custom Shop in Bowling Green, TN is probably the best at getting a realistic coloring.

I believe "Uncle Max" on the Ford Barn has the chemicals and equipment to do this also.

I have used Eastwoods "Carb Renew Bronze" coating before, and looks good if you take time to detail it right. It is fuel resistant, but like Hot Rod Reverend said, the ethanol will effect it if it comes in contact.

The link with info for Holley is below.

Sal

https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/holleycarbs.php
Click to expand...

To Expound... ;)

-HOLLEY CUSTOM SPEED SHOP-

Not only are Holley carbs restored, but Rochesters, Motorcrafts and Carters, too. Engineering parts lists are uncompromisingly followed to the letter.
Click to expand...
 
Also, the Holley shop will do whatever you want. Will just re-color the parts you send, or will restore the entire carb.

Sal
 
I sent in a request to the Holley Custom shop to get an estimate of cost to re-finish the main body and air horn with their gold/brown electroplate finish or whatever it is.
When I get an answer from them, I will report it in this forum.
 
I got a quote earlier from Holley for dichromating just the castings on a Holley 4160 4 barrel carb. If I remember right, it was $120 plus the shipping. Should be a lot cheaper for the ECG 2 barrel.

Sal
 
I like powder coating. Requires careful masking. Clean, very light sand blasting, blow clean, mask, powder coat and assemble after ensuring all sealing and holes are cleaned. Draw back is lack of a totally stock color.
 
Well, the reply I got from the Holley shop leaves me a little lost as to how to proceed next. They said that they don't have a price for individual components and would prefer to receive the whole carb for replating. The cost would be $120.00 plus $20 for return shipping and about 4 week turnaround.
I already have the carb all dismantled and cleaned. All the small parts are in a little box which I planned to keep here until the re-plated pieces came back, then I would re-assemble myself. Also, the valve body is cast iron anyway and doesn't get the goldish color plating. So I thought I was doing everybody a favor by just having the two main pieces ready to send.
 
Last edited:
It has been many years ago that I sent my 67 GT500 carbs to Holley. I sent them in pieces, they had no problem doing them that way. I also had all the linkage parts replated in the correct gold color as well, but don't remember if I had Holley do that. I tumbled the base plates in a tumbler, when done they looked brand new!
 
Dave, I would call and get someone else on the phone. I think the person you talked to, or emailed to is wrong for some reason. When I called, it was only two months ago and was told to just send the parts you needed dichromated. The price they gave you seemed way high too. That price must have been for disassembling your carb too.

Try one of these numbers:

866-464-6553 or 270-781-9741

Sal
 
Yeah, they gave that same phone number to call to get the work order number before I send the shipment off. I think you are right. Why would they diss-assemble, clean, re-plate, then re-assemble entire carb all for $120.00? doesn't make sense unless they are not sure what a Ford EBU carb is. Those were made by Holley for Ford weren't they? Anyway, I have planned to call them Monday morning to see if I can just ship them the two pieces I want plated/coated.
I read their whole website, but they don't get into any detail about their process/procedures so it is difficult to sit here any determine why they are asking for the whole carb. I will find out tomorrow and report back.
 
If it turns into a big hassle, you could always contact Uncle Max on the Barn to see if he can do it. I think the person you contacted at Holley didn't really know what your carb was. They were designed by Holley originally and are in the Holley parts and specs manuals, so they should know what it is. Guy was probably too young.

Sal
 
So, I called Holley and the guy said I did not need to ship the whole carburetor, just the two pieces that I want to get re-plated/coated. They take payment over the phone, give a work order number and said to allow two weeks turnaround (not including shipping back to me). Cost $110.00.
I think that's a little steep, but I would rather not paint the bare metal because I know it will wipe off with solvent. And I wouldn't have left it sitting in the cleaning solution so long, but this carburetor was BLACK like it had been in a rubber fire. It was actually the tooth brush that I used to clean it off that removed the goldish coloring underneath the black smoke.
So, I have the two pieces in a box ready to send off to Holley tomorrow.
 
Sounds good Dave. Like you said, it is a little pricey, but your carb will look like new when done. And the look will last.
Can you post a photo of the castings when you get it back ? Curious if Holley's work is as good as in the past.

Sal
 
Daves55, I think the re-plating is the best way to go. Any painting process will certainly be damaged with ethanol fuels. I had previously bookmarked this video that has a lot of information on the Dichromate plating process. Looks like it would be fun (and expensive) to try at home. I am sure that to do it yourself would cost way more than the price you were quoted. - Bob

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nmn94B5UUuU&t=6s
 
Bob, I watched the youtube video you offered. Years ago, I did a lot of zinc plating myself at home with a much more primitive setup using large cell batteries on small parts, brackets and a lot of nuts and bolts. After that, the acid solution was so dirty, I started getting crummy results, but by that time I was finished. I also did not know about the extra step he took in adding the brightening solution. I did not have that at the time when I did it. I used to polish the plated parts using a soft cloth coated with baking soda or fine rubbing compound to get a good shine.
I was surprised that the yellowing process was only a dunking in a solution. I thought that needed to be electroplated also. Apparently, the yellowing is like a sealer for the zinc finish. This was very interesting. Thanks for the info.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top