Carbide generator instructions or tips.

jack99

Senior Member
Does anyone have a carbide generator that they use.
Questions: How much carbide do you place in the basket? How do you set the water valve -- wide open or just a trickle? Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

BTW I have a E&J Unit
Jack
 
I don't have a car with acetylene headlamps but I have a basic knowledge of their operation. The fuel chamber is generally filled to normal capacity with the carbide and then sealed up. Open the drip valve just a little to start and then ignite the burner. The valve is then adjusted for the normal flame and generated light. A person has to then adjust it for optimal light output and continuity. This is the part that takes time to get used to. A person can tell you but you need to experience it to get used to it.

The big carbide generators that the A&P school I went to had a regulated feeder that made sure that manifold line pressure didn't exceed 5 PSI. We never had problems with it during oxy acetylene welding classes. It was safer than using bottles of acetylene.
 
I use my John Brown 16's and have a Victor generator but I will include the instruction sheet for a Corcoran because they operate the same. I would suggest you check your burners/mirrors/hoses and the tubing lighting system functions properly. The first time I fired mine up, I took the Mangin mirrors out to be sure I didn't crack them if a burner was leaking, etc. I used a small acetylene tank with the regulator set very low. Once your system works properly just connect the generator output hose. I set the top tank where I could count the drops coming out and checked out that I could reach the "65-drops" per minute as well as to be able to shut the water "off". Be sure the top tank is sealed when you clamp it on and there is no leaks. The lower tank needs to have the unused carbide/residue cleaned out after use so you may want to use less than a full basket. Carbide expense and the cleanup is why I have a Prest-O-Lite tank that I favor. The Prest-O-Lite tank is the "B-tank" size. Last tip; acetylene headlights are "air-cooled" so I don't leave them lit for more than 4-5 minutes without driving because the bonnets get hot. It is another reason the POL tank can be turned off and on for relights so easy. I see the post is a little old but there aren't many of us that actually drive with gas-lights.
 

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Just to add for safety sake. Acetylene gas is not stable much over 5 to 15 psi so the welding gas tanks are filled with a porous mass which could be any one of a number of types. The porous mass is heavily soaked in acetone to prevent air pockets. The acetylene gas is then dissolved into the acetone to be come fluidic when the bottle is charged. This makes the pressurized material as stable as it can be for storage. A person can see from this that acetylene can be dangerous to use if procedures are not followed in a precise manner. As long as the instructions are followed, using the gas lamps is safe.

A lot of folks modify the lamp to use a high intensity electric bulb. The affect is similar to using a flame but without all the careful procedures to have headlamps.
 
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